Stalled, No Restart, Started Back Up After 15 mins - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-23-2007, 10:26 AM   #1
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Default Stalled, No Restart, Started Back Up After 15 mins

Thanks All for any help.

My girlfriend has an '97 Olds 88 with 87k miles on it. Last week it had a castropic failure due to a LIM. Hydrolocked it while trying to start it. I pulled all the plugs and cranked it over and immediately drained the oil. Put in new LIM gaskets and a UIM in along with a new thermostat, plugs, and wires. Changed the oil on it twice. Compression test came up good for all cylinders.

Its had 150 miles on it since the failure and knock on wood no spun bearings yet. This morning it stalls on her and refuses to start. IE it cranks over but does not catch. 15 mins later while waiting for me and a tow it starts right back up like normal.

Any surefire indicators of a problem like this?

Thanks all again for the help!
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Old 10-23-2007, 11:47 AM   #2
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Almost sounds like an intermittent Crank sensor failure.... Hard to say wothout being there to look at it..

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Old 10-23-2007, 12:55 PM   #3
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No check engine light, I'm assuming?
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Old 10-23-2007, 01:56 PM   #4
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No codes at all.

I have a few Taurus SHO'* and this symptom of stalling and restarting after cooling is classic crank sensor failures before outright complete failure.

Cam sensor may cause hard starts and possible small driveability issues but not a no start condition.

Yet I don't want to start throwing money at this car as I've only got 150 miles on it after complete hydrolock. Last thing I want to do is dump another $100 in parts and spin a bearing soon after. Guess I could drop the pan, pull some caps and check on the rods and lower main bearing shells.

The sad thing is the car drives roughly 100 miles a day in really nasty northern NJ traffic. If it wasn't for that we'd be road testing this like normal after checking grounds, batt cables, PCM connections and so forth. But I'd rather have her not stall out anymore extra times then absolutely necessary.

Was just wondering if there is any problem that stands out rightway as the cause of this.

Thanks All Again
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Old 10-23-2007, 03:04 PM   #5
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Crank sensor stands out in my mind... But again its hard to be 100% on that

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Old 10-23-2007, 06:42 PM   #6
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Should I be seeing anything on the tach when starting normally? Like if the crank sensor fails and I crank it will I get no reading from the tach correct?
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Old 10-23-2007, 09:54 PM   #7
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When pulling the XIM'* you need to unplug the connector up front that goes to the crank, cam and ICM. Double check that connector first.

Second thing I'd suggest is double checking the battery cables. At least one came undone and may be loose or corroded. We see many intermittant oddball issues from poor connections.
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Old 10-24-2007, 09:54 AM   #8
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I didn't pull the crank, cam, or ignition module connectors during the LIM/UIM job. Only thing I disconnected where the usual injectors, TPS, MAF, ECT, MAP, Alternator, and IAC. Plus a few vaccuum lines.

Looks like I got a plan of attack.

#1 Clean all grounds and the ground bus.
#2 Pull and clean all connectors I've previously touched. So injectors, TPS, MAF, ECT, MAP, Alternator, and the IAC.
#3 Pull and clean the crank and cam sensor connectors.
#4 Pull and clean the ignition module connection and dedicated grounds if it has any.
#5 Pull and clean the PCM connection.
#6 Clean the battery cables yet again.

I may just replace the CPS anyways for piece of mind.

Thanks all
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Old 10-24-2007, 11:57 AM   #9
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Sounds like you on track to solving this. After you clean all the connections only time will tell if it happens again.
Don't forget to include cleaning the ICM connector (toward the radiator) I had an issue with stalling beacuse a contact was loose and corroded on this connector.
Crank sensors can go out a number of ways. Sometimes its hard starting, sometimes it will stall when they get hot.
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Old 10-24-2007, 01:21 PM   #10
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Just double checking, but the ICM connector is the ignition control module correct?

I'm assuming thats the 14 pin connector bolted into the ignition module and the coils sit on top of it?
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