Spun a bearing looks like-PHOTOS - Page 4 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-11-2007, 03:32 PM   #31
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Are you replacing that rod?
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Old 02-11-2007, 03:36 PM   #32
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Are you replacing that rod?
Don't know yet. Still need to get the data for it to take measurements.
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Old 02-11-2007, 03:45 PM   #33
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Looks bad to me. The end face of the cap looks torn up.
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Old 02-11-2007, 04:31 PM   #34
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Looks bad to me. The end face of the cap looks torn up.
That could be just shadowing in the pics. I'll take some better ones later when I get back from dinner with the parents.
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Old 02-11-2007, 04:41 PM   #35
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I wouldn't re-use that rod. At the very least, take the rod to a shop and have it checked. This is cheap insurance.
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:34 PM   #36
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I agree Bill.. Have the rod checked.. If they deem it garbage, then you'll need another..

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Old 02-11-2007, 11:57 PM   #37
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if you look at the rods, you should be able to read numbers and stuff on the inside where the bearing sits....from that pic, it looks like the numbers were gone, so you'll probably have to replace the rod
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Old 02-12-2007, 12:40 PM   #38
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Spun rod bearing. Welcome to the club. Mine spun at 120k.

I don't know what your financial situation is, but since you have the engine out you might consider throwing in some cam bearings and if your cylinder ridge isn't too bad, a set of piston rings too. At 120k, my engine had no ridge whatsoever - the pistons pushed right out. I just used a glazebreaker to clean up the cylinder walls a bit and put new rings in. And since you'll be down to a bare block, you might also want to have it boiled to get any babbit material or other crap out of there. You're bearing wasn't too bad, but ya never know.

My philosophy here is that you have the engine out, you might as well put one back in that will last you another 180k. You could probably buy a used engine for less than this rebuild, but you won't know what you're getting.

Of course, I only got 76668 miles out of my rebuild. (Totaled at 196668.)
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:33 PM   #39
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My pistons pushed right out too.

Though finances are not much of an issue right now, I just don't want to spend too much and have someone total my car because of snow or something.

Still having trouble finding a source for connecting rods. GMpartsdirect wants $50 for one rod. Can't find other sources.
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Old 02-12-2007, 01:43 PM   #40
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Very unlikely you'll be able to use that rod again. Either find a used one or buy new. One more thing though...you'll have to have all the rod big ends resized for the new bearings and crank. The rod ends tend to get oval with time, milling the caps then boring to size is a requirement. Also, the rod bolts are torque to yield (TTY), meaning you'll need new ones.

Some motors, like small and big block Chevys, trend to be a little more forgiving than others on rod bearings, the 3800 isn't one of them.

Hope it goes well.

Cheers,
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