Ok, it cost me $118.72 US to have them tell me my Modulator valve (the thingy under the airbox) has an internal failure. $900 US to replace, parts and labor (Pontiac Dealer). They extracted codes 33, 37, and 41 in the process, I think 33 and 37 are the rear wheel speed sensors, but the mech said they actually checked out fine, including the whole wiring harness, so he thinks they're bogus codes. Anyone know these codes for sure? Speedguy, you mentioned high pressure bleeding solved your problem (remember my car sat garaged for 5 years), and the dealership said the Teves Mark IV system is a bitch to bleed.....15 times each wheel, then repeat the process, 4 jugs of fluid.

Any thoughts? I'm thinking if bleeding doesn't work, I'm gonna try a junkyard part with a 30-day warranty, but it'* gonna be hard to find a PMV assembly from a 91-93 Bonnie that had both ABS and Traction Control.

Hey Willwren -

There'* a 92 SSEi at a local wrecking yard that'* damn near fully intact... engine, wheels, you name it. Hasn't been sitting there long, either. Seeing as how nobody has picked it over yet (except me ), it should have any parts that you'd need. Here'* the link to the place... http://www.meridianautowrecking.com/ ...they should be able to ship directly to you if you don't have any luck finding your part locally.

- Dean

Cool, that'll help. You're not too far away, either. Biggest problem with my car according to the dealer is that it sat garaged for 5 years, even brake internal components corrode when there'* no fluid movement. I also understand that replacing the PMV assembly and bleeding afterwards is a BITCH. I know it'* worse for 94 and up, too.

Just looked up your diagnostic codes in my GM shop manual... interestingly enough, it doesn't even list 33 or 37 as codes... there'* a 31, 34, 36, and 38. Wierd.

Code 41 is the Cam Sensor Circuit.


Those are for a 92 VIN 1 which should be the same for 93, but maybe someone out there with a 93 manual can confirm.

- Dean

Uhhh....I think you're looking at ECM codes. These are ABS codes. They don't talk to each other. Code 41 is supposed to be the Left Front inlet valve.

Remember I am not saying this is the way to do it but this is exactly what i did.

#1 I acquired a female to help me with both the job and motivation.
#2 took off the pipes connecting from the master cylinder.
#3 fluid leaked everywhere I lit it on fire and walked away. LOL
actually I had drained the system but there was still lots in the system.

#4 i took off the old master cylinder and put on a new one then I cleaned the plastic bowl and finished putting it together. Now I started with the driver’* side (because the book told me not to). LOL
I opened the value just far enough to barely let it out. Then my assistant pushed on the pedal hard. She maintained pressure. Then she pulsed it then.. oh wait that’* another story. I kept topping it off until fluid came through clean with no air bubbles.

I repeated step 4 with the other side and then didn’t bother with the rear because it worked. I personally would do all 4. I ended up using a huge container of brake fluid.

Hope this helped

Ty

Oh, F***.

SSEiGuy just made me check my book. RF inlet valve open or short to ground. This isn't a mechanical failure. It'* a burnt SV coil in the PMV. I'm hosed.

DOH!

I'm so used to checking the engine codes that I didn't even think about looking in the right section of the manual.

Code 33 and 37 are indeed the right (33) and left (37) rear wheel sensors, and code 41 as you know is the right front inlet valve circuit.