After what I found on mine, I'd say exhaust restriction (OEM welds) and exhaust manifold cracks are the two most likely culprits.

If I take out the knock sensor, coolant will soon follow, correct? If I take it out and clean the threads, what should I reinstall it with?

Can faulty lifters cause it? I have quite a bit of lifter clatter.

could the trans cause some false knock when shifting??? when i scanned my car...i had some knock, and i think one of the trans mounts are goin

Really it comes down to this: If it makes noise, it can cause KR.

I know, it'* a pain, but that'* really all the knock sensor looks for...noise at a specific frequency.

For your leaking oil you can get a small bottle of stop leak for oil and add it in. I did this when mine was leaking it had over half of the oil gone when i added 1 bottle and toped the rest of it off with oil. Since then i have drove over 6k and i have not lost a drop since.

Stop leak (mechanic in a can) is a last-ditch resort and won't do anything to stop the typical leak where the heads, LIM, and block meet in the 4 corners. This is a non-pressure 'splash' leak typical on high mileage motors.

Stop leak is really (in the long run) not a good idea. Proper repair of the leak is paramount.

Don't assume it'* false knock. By all means check around for potential causes but the situation you describe is more common than you might think.

Flash KR like above can, and often is, caused by lean mixtures.

If your LTFTs are such that the PCM pulls fuel in Open Loop mode it may indicate you need some MAF tuning. Also, you'll often find a lot more AE (acceleration enrichment) is needed to quench that knock. I've seen cars need triple the OEM setting of AE (like an accelerator pump for you carb guys) to get past this hump.

Cheers,

I would seriously consider that missing oil every change.
Did you finish those heads or install them yet?

Not yet, waiting on springs, retainers, keepers, and pushrods from SOP.

I guess I need to record and post some more scantool data.