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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-25-2005, 12:52 AM   #1
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Default Some scan tool data

Finally got to use my new scan tool today.

MAT - 110 (moving) 140 (idling)
A/F - 0 all the time (? - condition shows lean/rich in a seemingly normal fashion)
Boost % - 100 all the time (?)
KR at WOT - 0 or 3-7 degrees typically
Timing at WOT - 6-9 degrees
TC slip - 12 rpm cruising 250 rpm WOT
MAF topped 55k g/* near redline
Quad driver 1 was momentarilly marked bad during moderate acceleration just once that I saw.

Any thoughts?
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:40 AM   #2
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Default Re: Some scan tool data

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
Finally got to use my new scan tool today.

1. MAT - 110 (moving) 140 (idling)
2 A/F - 0 all the time (? - condition shows lean/rich in a seemingly normal fashion)
3 Boost % - 100 all the time (?)
4 KR at WOT - 0 or 3-7 degrees typically
5 Timing at WOT - 6-9 degrees
6 TC slip - 12 rpm cruising 250 rpm WOT
7 MAF topped 55k g/* near redline
8 Quad driver 1 was momentarilly marked bad during moderate acceleration just once that I saw.

Any thoughts?
1 IAT temps, a touch warm. you should look at a better heat shield.
2 The A/F ratio won't come up correctly I'm sure because of the use of a narrow band o2 sensor. It'* simply an on/off switch.
3 IIRC It'* simply the amount of boost the PCM is not 'withholding'
4. A touch high but I've seen worse. Lower your IAT temps
5. 1-2* lower than I see, but I like toluene.
6. When the TC is locked you should only get a few rpm like you are. When you go WOT it should fully slip, like it is.
7. Looks good
8. Not sure what that'* about.
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:52 AM   #3
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I'd give the Quad Driver either a slow boost sol or the TCC not unlocking as quick as the PCM wanted. It briefly displayed but didn't set a real code.
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Old 09-26-2005, 07:51 PM   #4
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Some scan observation today showed slow, steady knock counts above 5 psi boost, around 60-100% throttle. It would count two fairly quickly when rolling the thottle that high, then slow down, but still increase counts, like one a second or so. Couldn't be hot, the IAT showed ~74 degrees.

Sound like anything in particular?
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Old 09-26-2005, 08:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
Some scan observation today showed slow, steady knock counts above 5 psi boost, around 60-100% throttle. It would count two fairly quickly when rolling the thottle that high, then slow down, but still increase counts, like one a second or so. Couldn't be hot, the IAT showed ~74 degrees.

Sound like anything in particular?
Boy do I know this story ever so well. I have the exact same thing (KR counts and varies form 3-8*) and my scantool data is alomst identical to yours. Although mine seems to only happen at the higher boost levels during WOT. Funny, I was getting ready to post my data and seen your post.
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Old 09-26-2005, 10:14 PM   #6
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Does your knock situation get worse after the engine has heated up?
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Old 09-26-2005, 11:53 PM   #7
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Heated up as in warmed up or warmer than normal? I don't pay much attention to stuff before it hits the thermo temp. But I do get slightly higher knock levels if it'* hot.
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Old 09-27-2005, 12:04 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
Heated up as in warmed up or warmer than normal? I don't pay much attention to stuff before it hits the thermo temp. But I do get slightly higher knock levels if it'* hot.
I mean when you get into the car in the morning then drive it, you can feel the car getting slower 9more and more timing being pulled) as it heats up to operating temperature and even worse when it gets hotter than normal.
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Old 09-27-2005, 12:08 AM   #9
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In general, the warmer it is, the slower it is. That'* fair to say.
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Old 09-27-2005, 12:30 AM   #10
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Well even though it'* not a real fair comaprison between our motors... When I took off my old heads, the rear bank had a broken valve guide. This let oil into the center rear cylinder and was probably the cause of my knock. It was slower the warmer it got too. I think it'* from the oil heating up, becoming thinner, and getting past the broken valve guide easier.
I'm not trying to say you have a broken valve guide but you may have worn valve seals or worn LIM gaskets which could do the same thing. I got knock at 50% or more throttle when it was warmed up.
Just an idea. What do your plugs look like? (sorry if I already asked you that).
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