Solutions to common problems - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-30-2002, 05:46 PM   #11
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Default Re: Techinfo - common problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEi95
Quote:
Originally Posted by t-type
I would like to suggest some additions to the common problems section. I think it might be a good idea to list out common problem areas. For example on my car I have gone through:

2 waterpumps
3 alternators
2 dimmer switches
Popped transmission cooler line (rubber part came loose from connector)
Broken cupholder
I haven't had a popped trans line or dimmer switch (switch supposedly replaced before I got it) but I have done 3 water pumps (1 under warentee) and 3 alternators and I am due for another. It works fine but he bearings are really starting to go and you can hear them rolling around in the caseing. Not good!

HOLY CRAP!! Do you boys beat your cars or what Gordy my car is the same year as yours with close to same milage and i have had to do a wiper motor and oil sensor Original altenator, waterpump, and dimmer swtich ...however, my latch on my console broke off :( Thanks to my bf for that @$^^*&% that'* what happens when you push on it and lean over...crazy glue, however, works wonders....
239...am i....there....yet?
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Old 09-30-2002, 10:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
I think we beat our cars with electrical spikes and baseball bats
Let me see, I've been through 3 alternators, 2 water pumps, 2 belt tension pullys, An upper intake failure, an unhappy and disgruntled PCM Rear wheel cylinders, a master cylinder, right front hub assembly, broken roof console, which I have yet to fix... Broken cup holder, snapped console thingy... I havent fixed these either... Other than that basic maintenance

HO-LY...and your car has LESS (typo)kms on it then mine...I guess you boys just don't know how to love your car like a woman does
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Old 09-30-2002, 10:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamara
Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
I think we beat our cars with electrical spikes and baseball bats
Let me see, I've been through 3 alternators, 2 water pumps, 2 belt tension pullys, An upper intake failure, an unhappy and disgruntled PCM Rear wheel cylinders, a master cylinder, right front hub assembly, broken roof console, which I have yet to fix... Broken cup holder, snapped console thingy... I havent fixed these either... Other than that basic maintenance

HO-LY...and your car has MORE kms on it then mine...I guess you boys just don't know how to love your car like a woman does
No , but we do love our women in our cars ( just kidding)
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Old 09-30-2002, 10:25 PM   #14
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I agree 100% . If the car is tough , it well hold up . Bonnevilles are in a fine line lot'* of luxury and lot'* of performance! I am assuming that'* why we own them . I don't think our cars are ***** cats . If the car can't withstand me , I'm going to japanese cars ! But i have confidence.
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Old 10-02-2002, 08:08 PM   #15
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Default Say how about the intake plantum ??

I had to have the upper intake manifold replaced this summer.. Cost over 700 including tow bill after the hydro-lock. The dexcool was entering the throttle body and then the cylinders. Acording to the mechanic the dex-cool had caused the plastic housing to disolve.
We changed it over to the green stuff (regular antifreeze) .

So Guys & Gals beware.. And that was just at 100,000 miles so if you are still runing the orange stuff better get it checked out. I' ve heard other tales that are just as bad regarding Dex-cool...........

'98 With 117,000
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Old 10-03-2002, 10:26 AM   #16
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Well said, JR. Mine went at 83,000 miles. I was drinking about 1 gallon a day. I got lucky and didn't get the hydrolock problem. The ERG intake tube is the actual culprit here. If your don't keep you coolant below 200F, the EGR intake gets too hot and starts to break down the gaskets in that area.

A note to the 3800 Series II NA peeps:

DO NOT USE THE GREEN ANTIFREEZE IN CARS SPECIFIED TO USE DEX_COOL!!!
The standard antifreeze has silica in it...an abrasive. The Dex-cool does not. If use use the green stuff, your parts will wear faster and break down more often. Especially the gaskets surrounding the intake.

Deathrat, could you look up a TSB that covers this? I don't remember the number, but I think there were 3 that came out 4-5 yeras ago that covered this issue, right around the time they did the switch.
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Old 10-03-2002, 01:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vze3r85p
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathRat
I'm from the "Old School" of actually fixing the problem. Not this "New School" of just replacing the part. I rebuild most parts myself. I've rebuilt my own alternator with new parts & it has lasted longer than any store bought ever will.
Did you ever think that maybe some people don't have time to take out alternators and rebuild them . Sometimes it'* better to pay for the dirty work!And I'm as new as it gets , ONLY 19 YEARS OLD
Well it'* YOUR MONEY after all & I like to keep mine. I started fixing cars when I was just 14! By your age I was running a race car & driving it!
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Old 10-04-2002, 07:52 PM   #18
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As an engineer who designs waterpump seals for the OEMs (GM included), I feel the need to chime in on coolants. The traditonal green and Dex-cool are both basically just ethelyne glycol. The only difference between the two is the additives that are used to prevent metal corrosion. The green uses silicates which prevent corrosion by coating the inside of your engine. Dex cool uses OAT (Organic Acid Technology) to prevent corrosion. These additives do deplete over time. The main benefit of Dex cool is that it takes longer to deplete the corrosion protection. That'* why it is sometimes referred to as long life coolant.

Green, silicated coolant is not normally abrasive. If the coolant boils, the silicates may come out of solution and create abrasives. The argument is that if you remove the silicates from the coolant, you will eliminate a failure mode of the seal. This is true. However the conditions that cause silicated coolant to become abrase, also cause other failure modes.

So green coolant is not bad for a car, as long as you maintain it. If your car came from the factory with Dex cool, keep using it. If your car came with green coolant, there is no real benefit to switching to Dex cool, except for a somewhat longer life. You will still have silicates in your engine because a system flush WILL NOT remove the silicates that have plated out on the inside of the engine.

I hope this makes sense, I tried to keep this brief. I could probably write a 10 page article on this if I didn't watch myself.
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Old 10-04-2002, 09:09 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathRat
Quote:
Originally Posted by vze3r85p
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathRat
I'm from the "Old School" of actually fixing the problem. Not this "New School" of just replacing the part. I rebuild most parts myself. I've rebuilt my own alternator with new parts & it has lasted longer than any store bought ever will.
Did you ever think that maybe some people don't have time to take out alternators and rebuild them . Sometimes it'* better to pay for the dirty work!And I'm as new as it gets , ONLY 19 YEARS OLD
Well it'* YOUR MONEY after all & I like to keep mine. I started fixing cars when I was just 14! By your age I was running a race car & driving it!
I'm pushing high 10'* and low 11'* on two of my cars need i say more(naturally aspired small block and no weight modifications)
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Old 10-05-2002, 01:34 AM   #20
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opps
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