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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-02-2004, 12:31 PM   #1
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Default similiar to kennginns problem

my highbeams are always on and the high low beam switch broke. I can still use my turn signals though. I am tired of getting pulled over in the suburbs at night because I ride with my foggers on. Its either that or I am going to blind someone.
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Old 03-02-2004, 12:33 PM   #2
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well pull the switch back
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Old 03-02-2004, 12:35 PM   #3
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check the metal rod that goes from the turn signal mount to a box mounted on the steering column. is it all the way in place. that box went out in my car. i got one from the junk yard and it fixed my problems. do you hear a click when you pull on the turn signal. if you do and nothing happens then you probably just need the box(unit) replaced. shouldnt be to much. anyone on here know the cost?? didnt cost me but 1.50 or so!!!!
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Old 03-02-2004, 01:54 PM   #4
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Default Re: similiar to kennginns problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssesc93
my highbeams are always on and the high low beam switch broke. I can still use my turn signals though. I am tired of getting pulled over in the suburbs at night because I ride with my foggers on. Its either that or I am going to blind someone.
If your high beams are on, your foglights should be out; they're wired to your low-beam and parking-light circuits only. You can use them with parking lights only, or with low beams, but when you go to high beams, your foglights go out.

The high/low beam switch is not inside the steering column; it'* _on_ the steering column down on the left side behind the dash, operated via a metal pushrod leading down from your turn-signal switch. You'll need to poke around and figure out what went wrong: have you had the steering column opened up for any reason? New turn-signal switch installed? New ignition switch? Anything worked on up top can get the metal rod out of position if whoever'* working on the column doesn't get it back together just right.

If nothing'* ever been opened up, then I'd go check out the high/low switch itself first. You'll need to remove one or two panels below the steering column for a look-see. A manual will help here.
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Old 03-02-2004, 04:33 PM   #5
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He is running with his parking lights and fogs lights. He doesn't pull his switch all the way out and his brights don't turn on.
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Old 03-02-2004, 04:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
He is running with his parking lights and fogs lights. He doesn't pull his switch all the way out and his brights don't turn on.
Oh, yeah, that makes sense now.

Need more coffee...
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Old 03-03-2004, 12:37 PM   #7
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LOL I forgot I even posted this. Well here is the thing, I have been riding like this for 8 months. It never really bothered me because of the look with no headlights on. But here is how things messed up. I had my high beams on trying to let someone come out of a parking lot for curtousy. I flashed 2 times. Thye didnt budge. I did it again and they pulled out. When I go to turn the high beams off I hear a POP. I checked it out and the turn signal switch for the brights was loose. I can actually pulled it with no force. No click or nothing. I havent started troubleshooting it because I thought it was a loss cause and it will cast me my arm leg and heart to fix it.
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Old 03-03-2004, 12:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssesc93
I can actually pulled it with no force. No click or nothing. I havent started troubleshooting it because I thought it was a loss cause and it will cast me my arm leg and heart to fix it.
I assume that you mean you can pull _back_ on it with no force, not that you can pull it completely out, yes?

You still need to figure out which end of the actuator rod has gone wrong: If it'* out of position up top, you'll probably have to open it up (i.e. pull airbag, wheel, lock plate and turn signal) to get at the problem. If it'* out of position down below, where it goes into the high/low-beam switch on the left side of the column behind the dash, then the repair may be a little less painful. I think you're going to have to get down there and do a little looking around; there'* not a lot else we can do at this point. (Heck, even hotwiring or bypassing the high/low-beam switch is going to require removing the lower dash panel for access anyway.)
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Old 03-03-2004, 01:26 PM   #9
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damn, oh well. i gues if i wanna save money.
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Old 03-03-2004, 02:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssesc93
damn, oh well. i gues if i wanna save money.
Working under the dash is nowhere near as much hassle as pulling the steering column apart; the worst you need to worry about is banging your head on something or cutting your hands on sharp edges. (They do _not_ bother to smooth off the sharp edges on the metal stampings under there. )

I don't remember the details so I'm just winging it here, but start by removing the big black flexy plastic cover over the pedals, which attaches to the lower edge of the dash and in a couple of places on the firewall. You will need to unscrew a few 7mm or 8mm fasteners and one or two plastic push-pins (use a door panel removal tool if you've got one) (buy one if you haven't; what the hell are you doing without one? ), and unplug the courtesy light from its mounting hole. I _think_ you should be able to reach the high/low-beam switch on the left side of the steering column at this point, and possibly even feel where the metal actuator rod comes down into it from above.

I hate to sound too confident about this because the last time I had to repair this switch was on our '96 Trans Sport minivan, so I can't swear I'm not thinking of the Trans Sport procedure here instead of the Bonneville'*, but good luck anyway...
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