shuttering / vibration during acceleration. - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-10-2005, 06:10 AM   #1
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Default shuttering / vibration during acceleration.

Hey there. Just found this place. Great resource!

My wife'* car is a 99 Bonneville SE - great car: very pleased. It is getting up there in age however with 80k miles. Ever since about 50k we began to get this shuttering / vibration in the front end during acceleration from a stop (sounds like farting actually). I have not been able to find out where this is coming from. I at first suspected the engine mounts but that does not seem to be it. It has not gotten any worse over the past year and is more annoying then anything else. I searched the board for a similar issue but did not see anything. Anyone ever experience this?

Everything concerning the engine mounts looks good (I suspected these because I remembered an issue with an old chev celeb. my Dad had.). Liklewise everything under the front wheels looks in order (just changed all the brakes this past week and did some poking around). The drive belt is shot and I am replacing that tonight (could that be it?) - no clue. Any help would be appreciated. I have to take her in for the recall this week and will be bringing this up at the dealership, however, as always, I would rather do it myself.

RolandGS
Louisville, Ky

p.*. What master of engineering decided to wrap the drive belt around an engine mount in the 3800 series II anyway. This person should be tarred and feathered! I about blew a gasget myself when I saw this. I was going to attempt to use my 2 1/4 ton floor jack to support the engine (perhaps with a short 2x4 accross the pan) bad idea? Is there a good way to support the engine under there with out worrying about damage?
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Old 01-10-2005, 08:36 AM   #2
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Default

Hey...welcome to the club!

Yes, the belt design on the Series II is very poor. It'* not tough to change, though. Supporting the engine with a 2x4 under the oil pan is suitable for removing the long bolt through the dog-bone engine mount.

As for your shaking and vibrating...are you sure you don't have an ignition problem? My 99 ran poorly at about 55K and I gave it a full tune up and it cleared right up. Been fine ever since. When was the last time you changed the plugs, wires, and oxygen sensor?

Do you have a Service Engine Soon light?

Also, what is the recall for...Fuel Pressure Regulator?
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Old 01-10-2005, 10:55 AM   #3
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yea you can use the jack just support the engine and you will be fine

if you do have the SES light you can get it scanned at Advance or Autozone for free, just make sure that you write down the codes
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Old 01-10-2005, 12:24 PM   #4
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Default

or you could spend 2 minutes and remove the lower portion of the mount, which is made to come off easily.

i think the belt routing is confusing (wish i had a diagram on the radiator support), but it works very well. Well balanced motor...
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:54 PM   #5
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Default engine mount

Just wait till you realize that to change a water pump (my '92 SSE) that you have to remove the top engine mount by jacking the engine up till PS pump reservoir cap is almost to the height of strut bar, to be able to remove the mount off the same stud that mounts the water pump.
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Old 01-10-2005, 01:59 PM   #6
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Default Re: engine mount

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobc997615
Just wait till you realize that to change a water pump (my '92 SSE) that you have to remove the top engine mount by jacking the engine up till PS pump reservoir cap is almost to the height of strut bar, to be able to remove the mount off the same stud that mounts the water pump.
That'* actually only true on an L27, not a L36. The procedure for changing it out on a Series II is much easier!
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