serpantien belt - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-01-2006, 08:42 PM   #1
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Default serpantien belt

ok driving down the road going to work i hear what sounds like i ran over a piece of metal. seconds later cheak engine light comes on and there goes my power stearing (luckly i slowd down cuz i knew somthing was wrong) so open hood and belt all over the place. anyway replacing belt, labor, and transistor? cost about 375+ tax
seem fair? this is the same guy that did my struts and that price was fair.

on another note anyone have a bunch of money i can have? this is the 2nd time in 2 weeks i had had to put money into the car and i need to pay for school not to mention hundreds of other bills.im never going to have unuff to get my gf a car she deserves (donations acceptd as long as it runs and is reliable) dam poor college kids


later JVV
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Old 08-01-2006, 08:44 PM   #2
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college kid here also

you need to figure out what a transistor is.. cuz it cost you more then $250
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Old 08-01-2006, 08:52 PM   #3
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not a transisstor tensionior sorry i just took a history test and am brain fried
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Old 08-01-2006, 08:56 PM   #4
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you were probably in need of getting it fixed right away, but you could have got the parts and done it yourself for under $100 easily... probably under $50
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Old 08-01-2006, 10:52 PM   #5
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did the whole tensioner have to be replaced or just the Pulley? And was a Goodyear Gator back belt use?

The pulley and belt can be replaced in a matter of minutes on an L36 with the right tools..

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Old 08-02-2006, 12:38 PM   #6
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Ouch! That $375 was not a good price, IMO. If he replaced the whole tensioner, that was listed around $150 at the local dealer here, but the labor for that whole job should have been no more than an hour, and that'* rounding up, IMO.
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Old 08-02-2006, 01:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lash
Ouch! That $375 was not a good price, IMO. If he replaced the whole tensioner, that was listed around $150 at the local dealer here, but the labor for that whole job should have been no more than an hour, and that'* rounding up, IMO.
I looking at the 94 shop manual here, not 95, but removing the "tensioner" seems a little bigger job than that....

For the supercharged version, they got you draining the coolant, moving the generator and the power-steering pump.

For the non-supercharged, they have you moving the power steering and loosening the generator.

Of course, WHY do we need to change the tensioner, when its is usually just the pulley bearing freezing. Unscrew the pulley with right-hand torque; its a left-hand thread, and for 20 dollars replace the pulley.

Am I missing something? How does the "tensioner" fail (exclusive of the pulley)?


...
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Old 08-02-2006, 01:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebound
Quote:
Originally Posted by lash
Ouch! That $375 was not a good price, IMO. If he replaced the whole tensioner, that was listed around $150 at the local dealer here, but the labor for that whole job should have been no more than an hour, and that'* rounding up, IMO.
I looking at the 94 shop manual here, not 95, but removing the "tensioner" seems a little bigger job than that....

For the supercharged version, they got you draining the coolant, moving the generator and the power-steering pump.

For the non-supercharged, they have you moving the power steering and loosening the generator.

Of course, WHY do we need to change the tensioner, when its is usually just the pulley bearing freezing. Unscrew the pulley with right-hand torque; its a left-hand thread, and for 20 dollars replace the pulley.

Am I missing something? How does the "tensioner" fail (exclusive of the pulley)?


...
The spring can snap in the tensioner... But 99 out of 100 times the Bearings in the pulley just die a nasty death...

That pulley is very easily replaced... If you have some extentions, and 18 mm deep socket, and an E-10 Torx bolt socket you can remove the stud from the motor mount and pull the spacer in a matter of minutes...

The only thing I can think of for that price is the entire tensioner assembly had to have been replaced...

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Old 08-02-2006, 02:45 PM   #9
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No argument here...I concur.
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