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Old 10-05-2013, 11:03 PM   #1
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Default security light stays on

car died while driving. it wouldn't crank. checked battery & checked/ cleaned cables. checked voltage-had no voltage at small wire on starter. checked ign sw fuses. while checking fuses (int) in run/ crank positions the car started. I tried to crank it a couple of times with no results but then it started again. the security light had been flashing but now it just stays on. i started it several times & it seems to be normal except for the light staying on. i cleaned the keys & ignition switch. i don't know if i should keep checking or try the work around for the key (resistor). any way to check the vats module?
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Old 10-06-2013, 03:32 AM   #2
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The resistor bypass method doesn't take much time, and is cheap. If it isn't the fix, you can always reverse it like it was, just dont cut the wires too close to the cylinder. I just did the complete bypass using this module PASSkey II bypass box
I don't know if you can test the tdm'*, but the above fixed my secuirity issue
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:51 AM   #3
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Thing about the security is though, should it fail WHILE the engine is running, its not suppose to shut the engine off. That'* a safety issue, and the car is programmed NOT to do this.

I suggest taking it to a dealer where they can connect a Tech2 and run a diagnostic on the entire system. The $75 or so is well worth it in headaches trying to diagnose this by throwing parts at it.
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Old 10-06-2013, 10:34 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97BONNIESE View Post
I tried to crank it a couple of times with no results but then it started again. the security light had been flashing but now it just stays on. i started it several times & it seems to be normal except for the light staying on. i cleaned the keys & ignition switch. i don't know if i should keep checking or try the work around for the key (resistor). a
The point that the Theft Deterrent Module had the security light flashing meant it'* not reading the correct resistance range through the key lock cylinder and the chip on the key. Most likely that'* due to the 7-10 very fine wires within each of the little white wires having lost a few of the hair thin wires to breakage when the tilt column is flexed up and down. That changes the resistance of the little wires between the TDM and the key lock cylinder.

When the security light stays on steady, that indicates the TDM is in one of the 4 (IIRC) failure modes. One of those is that that module decides it is not working correctly and just turns the light on steady and allows the car to be cranked. My 98 was in that mode for 3-4 years. Then one morning it refused to crank at the local quick market when I picked up coffee. The starter apparently had started acting up and may have spiked the system causing the TDM to wake up.

I ended up cutting the two fine wires inside the orange sheath fairly close to the steering column, leaving me a lot of wire to attach a resistor series that I built from Radio Shack resistors. I soldered it in and slide the heat shrink tubing I had put on over the exposed resistors' leads.

If you are not able to locate the orange sheath wire and do this yourself, I suggest finding a shop that installs car alarms and pay them to insert the correct resistor--it'* my understanding this is what they do to bypass the system to install their aftermarket alarm system.
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Old 10-06-2013, 11:34 AM   #5
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so, are the 2 wires in the orange sheath essentully the same wire? Just cut both & insert resistor pack?
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:47 PM   #6
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Correct. Just make sure when you install the resistor, its not on the key side, but the module end.
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Old 10-06-2013, 01:12 PM   #7
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you lost me but I hope i see what your referring to when i look at it.
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Old 10-06-2013, 02:04 PM   #8
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Instead of trying to sodar a resistor in some people buy a ignition switch and put the spare key in it and just tape it under the dash.
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:04 PM   #9
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so, are the 2 wires in the orange sheath essentully the same wire? Just cut both & insert resistor pack?
The white wire goes to the key in the ignition lock up by the steering wheel and the other white wire is the return.

I located them by hanging upside down and looking up toward the A-pillar under the dash. There was a block of wires in a connector. From the steering column there was a group of wires coming to it from the ignition switch (not the lock cylinder, the actual switch). I followed the orange ones to the connector and near the connector the orange covering stops and the two white wires are visible going to their separate plugs on the connector.

Cut the wire back toward the ignition switch to leave about 12 inches or more of wire to work with. It is fragile to strip the white coating off with a blade without pulling the hair fine copper wires inside it out.

Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of your key chip and put together in series a group of resistors. There are lists of the 15 resistances used on the internet ( search VATS resistance) and Radio Shack might measure your key for you to see which of those you have in your car. Mine was 880 ohms. Radio Shack sells a 220 ohm resistor in a package of 4 or 5. Perfect I put 4 of them in a row.
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:16 PM   #10
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Does anybody ever replace the lock cylinder and feed the wire back down the column like it was made? I know it takes dissembling most of the column because I've done it.
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