Rut Roh....need help ASAP....UIM - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-03-2010, 12:02 PM   #11
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Not sure if we have a write up on it. But I sealed mine with 2 dimes. Had to trim them down a bit to fit, then cleaned it all up and used some JB weld. Then I put some red RTV over the dimes to fill in the open area of the gasket.
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:27 PM   #12
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Not sure if we have a write up on it. But I sealed mine with 2 dimes. Had to trim them down a bit to fit, then cleaned it all up and used some JB weld. Then I put some red RTV over the dimes to fill in the open area of the gasket.
I assume these are the holes being referred to? ( I realize this is the lower, but I didn't have a picture of the same area on the upper) Whats the point of the coolant running through there in the first place? Heat the throttle body? If I understand correctly, you put dimes in the upper, sealed them with JB weld and then filled the pockets in the gasket with rtv? I assume no one has any pictures? I just checked my tracking number and my parts are sitting on my porch...woohoo! APN ships fast!
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:38 PM   #13
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The L26/L36 manifold doens't have the indents for dines like the L67 does. This means you need to find 1/4" pipe plugs (which I've never been able to find) or fill the coolant ports of the UIM. I've done it a couple times and would say to use a rattail file to scrape up the surface and give the JB weld something to grip. I filled the manifold and that stops the coolant dead in it'* tracks.
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:40 PM   #14
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Well, its all done. I broke it up over a couple of days, so it was no big deal. Everything went pretty smooth. No real surprises. Of course when I got everything done, it wouldn't start so I quadruple checked EVERYTHING. plugs, wires, all connectors, fuel injectors, etc, etc. It would crank great, but I would only get 1 fire every 5 seconds or so. Pulled the plugs, wet with fuel. Checked spark, yup getting spark...hmmm. Took out all plugs, cranked it over for a couple sessions to clean anything out. Put everything back, crossed my fingers, bingo! Ran really rough for about 10 seconds then smoothed out. White smoke screen for a few minutes, but I was expecting that. Drove it around, everything seemed ok, but felt a little sluggish. Then I started getting a miss under load (TCC locked, going up a hill). Picked up some new plugs today on lunch break because I remembered dropping one when reinstalling and figure I must have cracked it. Got home from work today and changed the oil (to make sure I had any residual coolant out) and put the new plugs in. I was rather surprised to find the 3 front plugs (1,3,5) were all LOOSE! #5 was not even finger tight! Thats kinds of weird, I distinctly remember tightening those. Only thing I can think of is that those plugs were in and out AT LEAST 5 times during the swap, so maybe the seat/threads were seeing a little wear? Who knows. Anyway, put the new ones in, snugged them up well....woohoo! All good to go. I got so good at taking the plugs in and out I was able to swap them all in 9 minutes, lol! Hopefully she is good for at least another 100k :o)
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:54 AM   #15
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The wetness was most likely coolant that was left over in the cylinders. Odd on the plugs.

BTW, it'* not typical that any coolant gets into the oil. You filled the cylinders, not the crankcase. A little might seep past, but it usually wouldn't be noticable.
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Old 02-11-2010, 07:14 PM   #16
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The wetness was most likely coolant that was left over in the cylinders. Odd on the plugs.

BTW, it'* not typical that any coolant gets into the oil. You filled the cylinders, not the crankcase. A little might seep past, but it usually wouldn't be noticable.
I managed to dump some down the lifter valley when I was pulling the lower off. Doh!
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:17 PM   #17
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Then check the oil after it has been running for a while. Our oil pans have about 3/8" of oil that doesn't drain out because it'* below the oil drain plug. Water being heavier, could sit there and not show up until the car was run hard enough to pick it up.
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Old 02-11-2010, 10:47 PM   #18
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I have been told that the coolant runs through the throttle body in order to increase manifold air temperature. Any reason why GM might want to do that? I thought it would be better to have a lower manifold temp.
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Old 02-12-2010, 08:57 AM   #19
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That'* a mixed one. Most people think it was to heat it in order to keep the TB from freezing in the coldest of climates. Once we look at how little coolant flows into the TB (Dan..we coudl use a pic with measurements) it'* tough to say why it'* even there.
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