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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-08-2008, 03:01 PM   #1
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I have a 97 SE...with 105000...the temp seems to change alot.During highway or just around town. I noticed the scum in the antifreeze overflow.
From what I've read Dexcool this might be the trouble. Since I just bought this car within the last month and it didn't do this till the last week i can't be sure. Is it possible the thermostat might be going bad?

Has anyone ever used one of those small hand held code scanners you buy at a auto parts store? And are they correct? I am looking at Actron CP9125
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Old 08-11-2008, 07:27 AM   #2
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Your temps will vary to a degree.

The thermostat is typically a 195F in our cars and the low speed fans don't come on until 216ish, then the high speed fans kick on around 228F.

If you do see scum in your overflow, a coolant flush is possibly due and would be good for maintenance.

A scanner is a good tool to have around. If you have the chance a scanner/code reader would be nice. I believe most would recommend one around the 9145 or 9150 area in model numbers.
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Old 08-12-2008, 05:11 PM   #3
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Should the fans kick on automatically?
I can get them to kick on by turning the heater on,but I've never seen them run anyother time.
A complete flush and a new thermostat should help this out?
Would running a cooler thermostat make that much difference?
And last but not least...bleeding the cooling system of all air can be done by the valve on the water neck and also how?
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Old 08-14-2008, 09:45 AM   #4
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The fans, if running properly, will kick on when any climate system is engaged (AC or heat). Or, as Boosty mentioned @ 216 and 228. I have been running a 180T stat for a while now and it seems to keep the temps down without detriment to MPG or performance.

If you keep the DEX make sure that you bleed all the air from the system after the Tstat swap. Air can cause acidic oxidation of OAT coolants..(which could cause the early failure of engine gaskets and other nylon/plastic parts) .just an FYI.

I know that there used to be a TECHINFO article that gave great info on drilling a small hole in the flange of the TSTAT to help bleed the air, in conjunction with the bleed valve on the "water neck" (as you called it). Unfortunately, this is a newer format for the forum..and I dont know where that is anymore..

Hopefully a Mod can get in here and add a link to the TECHINFO article.

Good luck and keep us posted...
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Old 08-14-2008, 09:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
Your temps will vary to a degree.
I just read that again...Thats funny. Intentionally or unintentionally, Bill, thats funny.
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