1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

rough idle and other things...

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Old 10-04-2004, 12:20 PM
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Gordy, if you're getting a ST or LT lean, it'* not a misfire.

I'd go with the pump or FPR, possibility of IAC (dirty). Crud stuck in there not allowing it to meter right, allowing too much air at idle, and upsetting the AFR. I think both these MN Bonnevilles could use a thorough scrubbing of the TB.
Old 10-04-2004, 12:23 PM
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I dunno.....Clean the IAC, change the FPR and filter, Clean TB and MAF, and think and hope (fingers crossed) that it goes away. I get paid on Friday so hopefully I'll be able to get it all cleaned up and runnig correctly so I won't be wastin my time at rock falls this weekend with BonneMe and blue eyes
Old 10-04-2004, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by LakevilleSSEi
I know that I need one because when the car is warm it won't restart with out cranking it for almost 20 seconds. And when the car is cold, after sitting all night or something, it will fire right up. Or if the car is warm and only been off for like 5 min, it will fire right up but otherwise it won't. I figure that it could contribute to my lean code and my idle problem. Except my idle'* so rough that it'* like my car is cam'd and jolts the whole car. A couple of times it'* actually rolled the car forward.
I would save your money and "borrow" a fuel pressure gauge.


HARD STARTING WHEN HOT "If your engine cranks for a long time before it fires up when hot, but starts fine when it'* cold, you may have a leaking check valve in the fuel pump. In order to start immediately, fuel needs to remain in the fuel lines. A faulty fuel pump check valve will allow the fuel to flow back into the gas tank leaving the air in the fuel lines. When you attempt to start the car, all the fuel lines need to be filled first to build up enough pressure to start injecting. This takes especially long when the engine is hot since the injection system runs leaner when hot. Find out if the fuel pump check valve is the problem by getting someone to clamp the rubber fuel line to stop the flow of fuel on the engine side of the fuel pump right when you turn off the engine. Wait 20 minutes, have your friend remove the clamp and immediately try to start your car. If it starts up right away, it'* the check valve and time for a new pump."
Old 10-04-2004, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by willwren
Gordy, if you're getting a ST or LT lean, it'* not a misfire.

I'd go with the pump or FPR, possibility of IAC (dirty). Crud stuck in there not allowing it to meter right, allowing too much air at idle, and upsetting the AFR. I think both these MN Bonnevilles could use a thorough scrubbing of the TB.
Everyone could use a TB scrubbing ...I forgot to mention I also cleaned the heck out of my IAC with no improvement
Old 10-04-2004, 01:02 PM
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Wasn't yours clean after the rebuild?

Most of the cars here have never been cleaned. Mine was NASTY at 70k with a vast improvement in idle quality. I just did it again at 105k with the same results.
Old 10-04-2004, 01:18 PM
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Yes and no, to the extent that it wasen't caked on but not a lot of time was taken to shave off the sealed on stuff.
Old 10-04-2004, 01:45 PM
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Well SSEi, wanna have a TB scrubbing fest? I know for a fact that mine definantly needs a scrubbing, anyone else'* TB need a scrubbing too? I need to get this done before I hit the track this weekend.
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