Rough idle and missing while driving - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-25-2010, 05:52 PM   #11
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Inspect Throttle Body if dirty can cause a low minimum air rate to set this DTC during deceleration. As well as a restricted or plugged air intake duct or air filter.
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:07 AM   #12
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Ok, finally back. I removed the AGR valve and it had some small bits keeping it open. I cleaned it out and put it back. This seemed to make the car run a little better but still not good. I also removed the MAF and looked at the wires inside. They seemed to be ok. Can you see if they are broken? Just for fun I checked the resistance between the 3 prongs---- I got 13.84, 7.80 and Inf. Correct me if I am wrong but if the wires were broken I should get more than one at Inf.? If the wires are not broken could it still be bad? I am going to clean it tomarrow and see what that does. Some one also told me to tap lightly on the top of the MAF and if that makes it run rough it is bad. Is this true? I tapped on it and it did make it run rough. I also have a cat rattle--could the cat be plugged or broken? Is there a way for me to check this at home? Thanks for all the help so far, you guys rock.
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Old 03-31-2010, 12:12 AM   #13
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If you unplug the MAF the engine will stumble a bit and then smooth out. If it runs better unplugged, the MAF is bad. You will get a SES light doing this. It will go away when plugged back in. If Tapping on it makes it stumble, it'* likely bad. Something is loose.
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Old 03-31-2010, 11:59 AM   #14
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I went out this morning and started it and it ran ok and only acted like it was going to stall once. I unplugged the MAF and it seemed to not change any thing. All in all it is running better today. I am going to clean the MAF and check some more for vac leaks. I think I will also have the codes cleared and see what happens. I will let you know.
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:11 PM   #15
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ok this is the wrap up. From the original problems I have done the following things to my car. Changed plugs and wires, checked if coils were good, checked and cleaned MAF, cleaned AGR valve, cleaned throttle body and all sensors in it, all electrical connections I took apart I used di-electric grease when i put them back together. She runs like a champ now--better that she did when I bought her 3 years ago. I think plugs and wires, AGR valve, and MAF were the causes of my multiple codes. They are all cleared now. Thanks to all for the help, you saved me a lot of money and gave me a sense of accomplishment.
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Old 03-31-2010, 04:51 PM   #16
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Good to hear for a cheap DIY fix.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:02 PM   #17
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IN closer what'* an AGR valve
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:20 PM   #18
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Sorry, EGR valve
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:40 PM   #19
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Ok, Now this is disappointing. I just went to drive the car again and it had a hard time shifting. After about 10 minutes of driving I would let off the gas and the engine would not slow down. When I got home I put in park and the engine reved to 3000 rpm. I started it several times and same thing. I thing I forgot to knock on wood when I said it was fixed. Sooooo any ideas. Oh yes, the engine light is back on. Do not have the codes yet as not really safe to drive.
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:46 PM   #20
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Just for fun I unhooked the battery for about 10 minutes and then hooked it back up. The check engine light was off and it started just fine and idled normal. I took if for a rough ride for about 20 minutes and the check engine light did not come back on and the reving did not happen again. It did miss a few times under load but still no light. Did some one send a grimlen to my house? Any more suggestions are welcome.
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