Rough Idle, Gas to Start, Flashing ECC, SES - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-22-2006, 12:36 AM   #1
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Default Rough Idle, Gas to Start, Flashing ECC, SES

Alright guys and girls I am posting this thread as I have a day or two to try to solve a few of the problems my car has been having. It is not getting driven much and I have been at school so fixing it has been on the back burner. In short, it is a continuation of:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...674&highlight=
But I wanted to start a new thread to keep any confusion out of it.

Here are the issues:
-Starting the car cold is doable.
-If car has ran in last 48 hours or so, you need to give it gas in order to start it.
-When stopped at a light completely, RPM'* dip under 1K and it begins to idle roughly
-At idle the interior lights seem to dim occasioanally, but voltmeter does not indicate anything
-Check engine light is on. Codes were scanned last time I was home and codes were:
P0102 (MAF or VAF Circuit Low Input)
P0171 (System too Lean Bank 1)
P1406 (EGR Pintle Position Circuit)
-The ECC flashes the temperature upon startup and flashes for seeral minutes. Heat does NOT work (big issue in cold MA). Air blows fully and functionally, but is still very cold.
-Behind the passenger side foglamp a grey canister was found to be broken off of it'* mount and was dangling. No idea what it is or how long it has been like that. Just discovered last time I was home. Secured it back under bumper cover with zip ties.

What has been done:
-MAF removed, cleaned.
-TB removed, cleaned per techinfo.

Ideas:
-Check fuel pressure, and for leakdown
-Replace MAF sensor (could still be faulty after cleaning)
-02 (Not sure on this, just a guess)
-TPS (not confident on checking/adjusting, would need more info)
-EGR valve (again, uneducated on the subject)
-Get ECC scanned by Tech2 at a dealer

Any help would be great I would like to get it running decent again before it is too cold to work on it outside. This is probably my last weekend to do so. Thanks.
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Old 11-22-2006, 07:02 AM   #2
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Clean the battery terminals.
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Old 11-22-2006, 08:53 AM   #3
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I'm with Dame.. on cleaning the terminals.

However..take it a few steps further. Remove your battery cables at both ends, remove the rubber boots to inspect the crimps. Clean all areas and reinstall with a light amount of dielectric contact grease.

The MAF, TPS, IAC, O2 sensors are all on the same ground. Meaning, all the items you mentioned were issues (ESPECIALLY P0171) can act up from a poor power situation.

To elablorate further, my personal experience with P0171, and SanJuanCruiser'* is that it'* battery connection related. His car had a bad postitive battery post and mine needed all new battery cables. Then like magic the problem went away. I also had MAF codes and tried cleaning and swapping to no avail.

Start out with cleaning and investigating not only the contact surfaces..but where the cable is crimped to the connectors on the battery cables.
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Old 11-22-2006, 03:01 PM   #4
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Quick update, woke up and had to run out to the store real quick before I could work on my car. Car started, on the way I got the ABS light twice, car continued to idle roughly when stopped, battery meter DID fluctuate. Get to the store, run in, do my thing, go to leave. Nothing. Car wouldn't start, crank, nothing. Turned the key, security light would only blink once, maybe twice. Hit the button on my remote start, got it to crank and start. Way home still had battery fluctuation/guage dimming/rough idle. This leads me to believe an alternator, battery, or battery cable is at fault. Going to tear apart the cables after work. Thanks for the help so far.
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