Guys.......I just had my upper intake manifold replaced but......im still losing coolant from my tank. I have been checking my radiator but it is always full. Can anyone explain this cuz after shelling out some duckets im pretty pissed.

If you are seeing no evidence of external coolant leaks, the likely explanation is that you have an internal coolant leak. [EDIT: Or, the cooling system is just filling air voids left from the re-fill following the recent work.] If the UIM and its gaskets have been recently replaced, that leaves the LIM gaskets, a common cause of internal coolant leaks. Were the lower intake manifold gaskets changed when the UIM was done? Your coolant recovery tank and radiator are working as they should. As the engine cools, the coolant contracts and creates a vacuum pulling in make-up coolant from the reservoir. The fact that vacuum can still be created in your system implies that [EDIT: you have no leak or that ] the internal coolant leak you have is small , probably only pulling coolant into the intake passages when the engine is running. This bodes well for a successful repair.

For background on these common problems, please read: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38

so in other words..i have nothing to worry about?

If the UIM work was just done, and the parts are carefully disassembled, the new gaskets should be re-usable. Ask which replacement UIM was used, and whether a reduced diameter stovepipe was installed. The longest lasting repairs are effected using GM aluminum -frame LIM gaskets, a metal sleeved UIM, and a reduced diameter EGR stovepipe.

so i have nothuing to worry wbout?

If they changed the LIM gaskets along with the UIM, then you should be OK. You are probably just seeing the cooling system make up for air voids that were created when the cooling system was drained and re-filled when the work was done. Keep an eye on the radiator and recovery tank, though. Within a week or so, the coolant level should stabilize in the recovery tank when checked cold before start up. Make sure the radiator is up to the top, too. If so, you should be good to go.

This engine is notorious for trapping air in the cooling system. We recommend a special fill procedure be used and have included it in Techinfo, for just this reason. You may want to try bringing the car to operating temperature (top radiator hose hot) then opening the bleeder screw on the upper radiator hose fitting at the engine until only coolant (no air bubbles) flows . Rev the engine a bit, maybe to 2000 rpm briefly to encourage movement of air to the thermostat, then bleed it again.

alrighty...ill keep a check on it. i think i might have to get my water pump replaced soon also. im hearing a rattling noise coming from the passengers side. i looked at all the pulleys while the engine is running but none of them wobble or anything.

Is there a slight leak coming from the bottom of the waterpump. This will take a close eye as it is in a place that is tough to see.

If you have coolant loss. It is something to be concerned about. Either all the air is coming out as Bill Buttermore mentioned or you have a leak somewhere.

i havent looked at the water pump but im gonna take it back to the shop cuz i looked at the repair ticket and i only saw parts for upper intake manifold and gaskets. they told my pop over the phone that they were gonna do the lower also but they didnt. so we are gonna have a little pow wow.

What you are looking for on that ticket is lower intake manifold gaskets and associated labor. The plastic-frame LIM gaskets (usually Fel-Pro) cost about $40 from any auto parts dealer, and the aluminum-frame gaskets are about $20 more (and well worth it) from the GM dealer. The most popular after-market upper intake manifold is sold by Dorman. It sells for about $150 and comes with a UIM gasket and throttle body gasket. It is usually not necessary to change the lower intake manifold unless it has suffered severe corrosion damage at the sealing surfaces.