Ok, so I'm finally getting around to putting a junkyard tranny in my dad'* 99 Bonneville. I've been following the haynes manual step by step. I've got the CV shafts out, all the mounts removed, the subframe taken out, the drive to converter bolts are out. But these last two trans to engine bolts are a major pain. I can see the one that is underneath the exhaust manifold on the back side of the engine. Is there any way to remove this without pulling the manifold? Haynes didn't say anything about pulling the manifold. And where is the other under side trans to engine bolt. Is it by the starter? Because I see no other place for it to be. Anyone who has performed this task before if you could give me some tips that would be great.

Oh, and this thing made it to 178,000 before losing the tranny. Not bad at all for a FWD! I'm quite impressed!

The backwards bolt is gotten by removing the passenger side tire and obtaining about 3-4 feet of extension for the ratchet. It'* an 18mm just like the other 4.

The others are located if you are on the driver side..looking at a clock.. 9, 10:30, 11 and 1.

The 9 actually passes through the front transmission mount and into the engine block. Remember to support the motor, since there is nothing holding it once the transmission is out except the torque axis mount at the passenger side.

OK. I've already got the other 4. I thought there were six alltogether. I was thinking about trying the 4 foot extension idea, but I'm going to need someone to help me with that part. Hopefully someone else will be around tonight.

One thing that I found really annoying is that GM intermixed standard and metric bolts and nuts. I'm all for metric fasteners, but it'* annoying having to have 2 sets of wrenches and sockets cluttering up the workspace. There'* nothing like a bolt with a 1/2" head and a 15mm nut !!!! (one of the bolts on the front right subframe mount to frame)

I'll update as I make progess. Thanks

The only standard I'm aware of is the lower intake manifold. Technically the bolts are 3/8 not 10mm...GM still called them 10'* though.

I got the trans out!

The only issue I had was that the engine almost came with it. I had a jack with a large board underneath the oil pan. I also had another jack underneath the transmission. I got the tranny loose and since I didn't care about the old trans, I just yanked the jack out from underneath it. The trans fell just as I planned and all was fine. But then in my hurry to get the trans out from under the car, I knocked the jack out from under the engine. The engine tilted to one side pretty bad but the only things damaged were the oil filter, and some electrical sensor mounted next to the oil filter. Hopefully it isn't too expensive to replace. Anyone know what this sensor is called?

Also, I know there are 2 different "option" codes for the trans, MN3 and M15. The trans doesn't list either on the ID tag. I know there is a bunch of codes on a sticker underneath the trunk floor panel, and I think I see M15 on there but how can I know for sure. Is there a specific row and column intersection on this list of codes that indicates the tranny code?

That would be your oil pressure sending unit. About $35. The M15 code is an RPO designation. Look in Techinfo to deciper RPO codes. The tag on your trans is the one you really need.

Ok, I got the new trans from a local auto recycler. The 4 digit ID on the tags match exactly. It'* from another 99 bonneville, has 62,000 miles on it. I paid $400 for it with a 90 day warantee. Seems like a pretty good deal to me.

Anyways, while I have it out, I was thinking it would be a good idea to replace the front seal, driveshaft seals, and filter. Where is a good place to get all of these parts from? Will autozone or napa have them? Or is there a good online site to get them from?

Also, what tranny fluid do you guys recomend? Regular dexron? Synthetic? Synthetic blend? How about mercon V (I have lots of that sitting around, come to think of it, it might carry a dexron label too)

Napa should have your seals.

Autozone doesn't know what seals are, and Duralast sucks.

Don't use synthetic. It may be too slick, and cause excessive slip in the clutches and bands.

Any Dexron or Dexron compatible is ideal.

If the seals didn't show signs of leaking... I wouldn't replace them. No need to spend more than you need to. At that mileage..the seals should be good.

Autozone "Coastal" trans fluid is a great fluid for the price.