Replacing brake lines..QUICK FIX - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-12-2006, 02:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
I replaced the right rear brake line on the 89 last year. The line on that car just went from the wheel cylinder to about half way to the master cylinder. Guess it was 4-5 feet long. I removed the old line & carefully measured the length, then went to Advance bringing both end connectors with me. If I recall correctly the longest line they had was 3 feet long so they set me up with two lines & a union to join the two. I'm terrible at remembering the prices of things but think each line was under $10 & the union was around $5. You'll also need the tool (around $5) for bending the line without kinking it.
Did you re-use the end connectors or get new ones?

So when I remove the line to replace it, I am finding where the two ends are connected with the flare nuts, and disconnecting them there (if possible). If the ends are too rusty to unscrew even with PB Blaster, what should I do? If I cut the line just anywhere, it would be pretty hard or impossible to flare the ends of the line when they are on the car.

I'd love to have all of them replaced for piece of mind but I would rather have a pro do it And that is extremely expensive from my research.
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Old 07-12-2006, 02:52 PM   #12
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The lines from Advance had the connections on them, no flare tool required. The more I think about it I believe each line was less than $5.00. All 4 pcs. (2 lines, union & bending tool) might have been less than $20. I'm sure you realize it but you need to get this done ASAP. If something goes wrong with the front all you'll have left is the E-brake.
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Old 07-12-2006, 02:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
The lines from Advance had the connections on them, no flare tool required. The more I think about it I believe each line was less than $5.00. All 4 pcs. (2 lines, union & bending tool) might have been less than $20. I'm sure you realize it but you need to get this done ASAP. If something goes wrong with the front all you'll have left is the E-brake.
yeah i got likea 36" line for $4 or $5 there for mine...
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Old 07-12-2006, 06:31 PM   #14
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I have found that the brake line you buy in rolls is more malleable than that sold in pre-made lengths. It is not only easier to form the double flare, but it is also easier to bend without making a kink. However, I have been able to cut and double-flare the pre-cut pipe - it is just more likely to split. You do want to do double flares on these lines. Single flares are prone to split and crack resulting in leaks down the road. Brake lines are not a place to "make-do."

Rent the tool and buy a pre-cut length to cut and re-flare for practice. If you can get nice flares with the pre-made pipes, you can save a few bucks. You can usually make a much neater repair when you can cut and double-flare your own ends. That way, you can exactly control the length.
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:07 PM   #15
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Heck, if your going that far, you might as well do all of them. I did my 89 cavalier few years ago. Had to replace just a small section up front. By the time I got done, I replaced the whole rear lines from back to front. I bought the cheap flairing kit from Autozone. Worked like a charm.
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
I have found that the brake line you buy in rolls is more malleable than that sold in pre-made lengths. It is not only easier to form the double flare, but it is also easier to bend without making a kink. However, I have been able to cut and double-flare the pre-cut pipe - it is just more likely to split. You do want to do double flares on these lines. Single flares are prone to split and crack resulting in leaks down the road. Brake lines are not a place to "make-do."

Rent the tool and buy a pre-cut length to cut and re-flare for practice. If you can get nice flares with the pre-made pipes, you can save a few bucks. You can usually make a much neater repair when you can cut and double-flare your own ends. That way, you can exactly control the length.
How much minimum length do they sell in rolls, and how much?
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Old 07-12-2006, 08:12 PM   #17
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if you plan to get a roll, I would consider going in it with you/buying the extra. I need to do some brake line replacing pretty soon.

I know summit racing and similar sell kits with all the fittings but I dont know if they are the correct ones
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:53 PM   #18
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I usually see rolled brake line in 25 foot rolls but I'm sure there'* other lengths.

I doubt you will ever find pre-bent brake lines for our cars except on a donor car. Some companies will manufacture ready-to-install (already bent properly) brake lines for a 65 Corvette or other frequently restored classic car but not for a "regular" car.

Don't be surprised if you run into a bubble flare requirement rather than a double flare. The only double flared ends I did on my 90 were for the splices to the unions. All other ends were bubble flares such as at the proportioner valve and flexible brake line junction. I was able to buy straight lengths of 3/16" brake line with both ends bubble flared. One end was cut off and double flared for the union and the other was used as-is.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
I usually see rolled brake line in 25 foot rolls but I'm sure there'* other lengths.

I doubt you will ever find pre-bent brake lines for our cars except on a donor car. Some companies will manufacture ready-to-install brake lines for a 65 Corvette or other frequently restored classic car but not for a "regular" car.

Don't be surprised if you run into a bubble flare requirement rather than a double flare. The only double flared ends I did on my 90 were for the splices to the unions. All other ends were bubble flares such as at the proportioner valve and flexible brake line junction. I was able to buy straight lengths of 3/16" brake line with both ends bubble flared. One end was cut off and double flared for the union and the other was used as-is.
I stand corrected. Thanks Randy. Here is a link for a bubble flaring tool:

http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produc...AK583E86490B66

It is still true, however, that you don't want to do a single flare for these fittings.
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Old 07-12-2006, 11:19 PM   #20
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Well as it seems I have one small section at most to replace, I won't be spending that kind of money on a tool. I just can't justify it. Especially if I need bubble AND double flares, which would mean both tools?? I can rent one of these from most auto parts stores? I am not looking forward to this project. I'd rather replace the master cylinder again.
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