Replacing Ball Joints - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-20-2006, 04:12 PM   #11
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You know Pete... after reading the comments from the last poster.... I struggled for hours with the Rivets... Left a gash in my knee.... Broke a couple of bits, ran to the parts store still bleeding... Killed off a Grinding disc....

And all I had to do was go to my friends house and the rivets would have been out in 5 minutes

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Old 06-20-2006, 04:38 PM   #12
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Sorry Pete...I don't have a torch..and on my level of stuff...

Like struts..

I'd send this to Mechanic Dan... I don't replace ball joints.

And you've seen/used the grinder I have...
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Old 06-20-2006, 04:43 PM   #13
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As I'm not looking at the car right now, what'* involved with taking the control arm off too? It would probably be easier even DRILLING the rivets out if I could get the control arm off.

I may have a torch.
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Old 06-20-2006, 04:47 PM   #14
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I HATE replacing ball joints! I haven't done the bonnie'*, but I've done 1 on the explorer, and it is a pain in the ***!

Good luck!
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Old 06-20-2006, 05:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnie94ssei
As I'm not looking at the car right now, what'* involved with taking the control arm off too? It would probably be easier even DRILLING the rivets out if I could get the control arm off.

I may have a torch.
Pete..you have an acetylene torch? the real ones..not the Johnny homeowner special...that won't work.
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Old 06-20-2006, 07:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
As I'm not looking at the car right now, what'* involved with taking the control arm off too? It would probably be easier even DRILLING the rivets out if I could get the control arm off.

I may have a torch.
Taking the control arms off is super easy, just the two large bolts after you unbolt the ball joint and seperate it from the steering knuckle. If you're going to try it you will need some serious heat. You will have to get those rivets red hot, to get them off. I was originally planning on grinding/drilling myself, but my buddie'* friend who is a mechaninc just kinda looked at me funny when we told him the plan. He had both ball joints off in less than 15min.
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:07 PM   #17
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I tried the drill method, was a royal PITA, so I gave up. I was at my my muffler shop, Cole Muffler, and the chiselled it off for $20 for me. Money Well Spent.
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:34 PM   #18
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Why not just replace the whole UCA?
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Old 06-20-2006, 11:09 PM   #19
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because:

a) we don't have upper control arms. only lower control arms.
b) it'* cheaper to replace just the ball joint.
c) there'* a good chance the lower control arm doesn't come with the ball joint attached.
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Old 06-21-2006, 11:00 AM   #20
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I don't have a torch myself, but my brother-in-law does (or should...he'* a mechanic). Thanks for all the input. I'll pass on the drilling and remove the CA and heat those suckers up.

I'm assuming the heat won't damage the CAs?

The way I look at it, I know a shop would rape me on the price/labor. I want to do these myself to learn, and to save money. If I didn't have access to a torch I'd even get new control arms if they were cheap just so I could bolt the new BJs to the new CAs and be good to go. I'd probably still spend less money that way than if I let a shop do the whole project.
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