1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Replacing Ball Joints

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-20-2006, 03:38 PM
  #12  
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

Sorry Pete...I don't have a torch..and on my level of stuff...

Like struts..

I'd send this to Mechanic Dan... I don't replace ball joints.

And you've seen/used the grinder I have...
Old 06-20-2006, 03:43 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
bonnie94ssei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 11,308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
bonnie94ssei is on a distinguished road
Default

As I'm not looking at the car right now, what'* involved with taking the control arm off too? It would probably be easier even DRILLING the rivets out if I could get the control arm off.

I may have a torch. :?
Old 06-20-2006, 03:47 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
driverjohn2005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Bonney Lake/Ellensburg, Washington- WCBF '04, '05, '06, '07 Survivor-
Posts: 7,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
driverjohn2005 is on a distinguished road
Default

I HATE replacing ball joints! I haven't done the bonnie'*, but I've done 1 on the explorer, and it is a pain in the ***!

Good luck!
Old 06-20-2006, 04:01 PM
  #15  
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 8 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

Originally Posted by bonnie94ssei
As I'm not looking at the car right now, what'* involved with taking the control arm off too? It would probably be easier even DRILLING the rivets out if I could get the control arm off.

I may have a torch. :?
Pete..you have an acetylene torch? the real ones..not the Johnny homeowner special...that won't work.
Old 06-20-2006, 06:39 PM
  #16  
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
 
98SSE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
98SSE is on a distinguished road
Default

As I'm not looking at the car right now, what'* involved with taking the control arm off too? It would probably be easier even DRILLING the rivets out if I could get the control arm off.

I may have a torch.
Taking the control arms off is super easy, just the two large bolts after you unbolt the ball joint and seperate it from the steering knuckle. If you're going to try it you will need some serious heat. You will have to get those rivets red hot, to get them off. I was originally planning on grinding/drilling myself, but my buddie'* friend who is a mechaninc just kinda looked at me funny when we told him the plan. He had both ball joints off in less than 15min.
Old 06-20-2006, 08:07 PM
  #17  
PopaDopaDo
True Car Nut
 
popatim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 4,957
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
popatim is on a distinguished road
Default

I tried the drill method, was a royal PITA, so I gave up. I was at my my muffler shop, Cole Muffler, and the chiselled it off for $20 for me. Money Well Spent.
Old 06-20-2006, 08:34 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
MyLittleBlackBird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,295
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
MyLittleBlackBird is on a distinguished road
Default

Why not just replace the whole UCA?
Old 06-20-2006, 10:09 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
CSFiend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
CSFiend is on a distinguished road
Default

because:

a) we don't have upper control arms. only lower control arms.
b) it'* cheaper to replace just the ball joint.
c) there'* a good chance the lower control arm doesn't come with the ball joint attached.
Old 06-21-2006, 10:00 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
Thread Starter
 
bonnie94ssei's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 11,308
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
bonnie94ssei is on a distinguished road
Default

I don't have a torch myself, but my brother-in-law does (or should...he'* a mechanic). Thanks for all the input. I'll pass on the drilling and remove the CA and heat those suckers up.

I'm assuming the heat won't damage the CAs?

The way I look at it, I know a shop would rape me on the price/labor. I want to do these myself to learn, and to save money. If I didn't have access to a torch I'd even get new control arms if they were cheap just so I could bolt the new BJs to the new CAs and be good to go. I'd probably still spend less money that way than if I let a shop do the whole project.


Quick Reply: Replacing Ball Joints



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:54 AM.