Replacement leather driver's seat insert, 1999 SLE? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-06-2005, 10:54 AM   #11
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I was quoted 56 cents a square inch for the leather. The vinyl was $26 a yard.
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Old 05-06-2005, 12:27 PM   #12
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Can we do my seat first Mod Man? Please...it'* the only real part of my interior showing it'* age. Come on mod man...I'll help ya swap an L67 into a 90!!!!
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Old 05-06-2005, 12:45 PM   #13
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Hey, quit hijacking my post! I was first!
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Old 05-06-2005, 12:52 PM   #14
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Bob, where did you get that leather quote?

The vinyl I've been using is only $13 per yard (54" width). It'* stocked at Hancock Fabrics.
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Old 05-06-2005, 01:02 PM   #15
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The local upholstery guy. I'm sure he'* marking up his materials, and I'm a businesman myself, so I have no objection to a craftsman (he DOES do good work) making money.
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:04 PM   #16
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I got replacement leather for my torn driver'* bolster from a Le Sabre in a junkyard- then matched it to my '92 SSEi with leather dye (paint) from my local shoemaker. The back seat bench cost me $30 and has enough leather to do at least two bolster repairs. I removed the cover, pulled the stitches, and used the removed piece for a pattern. I also own a commercial sewing machine that sews leather. Most guys ain't gonna' have these. But you don't have to do too many re-upholstery jobs to make the $300 price (Harbor Freight) pay for itself.

And all you have to do is sew just a bit away from the original perforations in the adjoining vinyl and leather to hide the old seam. My job wasn't perfect in this regard, but you would never know it unless you were looking really carefully.



Just my $.02
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Old 05-06-2005, 02:07 PM   #17
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Sorry Bob, not trying to hijack... I'm really (wink wink) just aiming to work out the kinks in the system before yours is done.
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Old 05-06-2005, 04:41 PM   #18
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You sleaze!
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Old 05-06-2005, 07:13 PM   #19
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love ya too

Theres always a prototype before the finished product...wouldn't you want the best one? hahdhdhahahahhaa
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Old 05-06-2005, 11:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
mrpontiac80, I do have one question for you but I'm having trouble wording it correctly. We'll use the left bolster section for an example cause this is usually the section most would be interested in changing. This section has the top stitches (I believe you call them "baseball" stiches in the industry) as do the adjacent sections. I assume that these need to be removed in order to sew the new section in. My question is about the looks of the adjacent sections which are now preforated from the previous baseball stitch. How do the pros go about hiding this preforation?
Hey there,,

Actually we call a seam with a stitch on both sides a French seam and a seam with a row of stitches on one side only a Top stitch. In answer to your question though... To do the job properly, you should replace any other section that is part of a french seam or top stich, because the stitch holes will have to be "taken up" or hidden OR you have to get back into the same stitch holes that are allready there which is tough sometimes. However, you can jsut replace the bad section and do one of the above meathods to deal with the old stitch holes but I just do not recomend it.
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