Replace Sub Frame Isolators - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-11-2006, 02:13 AM   #1
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Default Replace Sub Frame Isolators

I have to try this, if not I will be selling the vehicle or turning it in.

I have been chansing a problem for almost a year, my personal life doesn't allow me to troubleshooted sooner.

I need to know where could I rent the proper tool or buy for what is worth, engine retainer to hold the engine while I replace the subframe (cradle) Isolators. there are 6 of them and they look pretty bad... plus the feeling of the trans when acelarating the vehicle a clunck is felt and the vibration at 70mph. Has anyone ever done or investigated this problem.

I had replaced almost everything-suspention wise, except inner tie rods, which I have in my trunk.

Let me know all help very apreciated.

thanx
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Old 06-11-2006, 02:21 AM   #2
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It may not be the subframe isolators. Have you checked your engine mounts
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Old 06-12-2006, 12:55 AM   #3
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I replaced 3 of them, I guess I'm missing one which is in the rear of the Transmission? There is a big piece of rubber against the frame and there is also a piece of metal holding a small piece of rubber at the end of it?.

How many engine mounts are in this vehicle and how many in for the TRans?

I replaced the facing the engine: the one by the battery and pulleys of engine, next the dog bone on the bottom and third the one on the back of the front bumper-it comes with a small shock/strut-I call it.

Thank you so much, I have been searching for rental of engine retainers.
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Old 06-12-2006, 12:59 AM   #4
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Here'* what I've seen (and replaced) on my 95 SLE SC:

Torque Axis mount (passenger side -has to be removed for water pump replacement)
Rear dog-bone (passenger side, rear of motor)
Front Transmission (can be seen in front of trans, next to where it connects to motor)
Rear trans mount (the one you've described).
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Old 06-12-2006, 02:39 AM   #5
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If your subframe bushings are shot, I'd like to know why. I've never seen a bad one.
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Old 06-12-2006, 10:17 PM   #6
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So the rear of Transmission mount is the one missing for replacement. Is it hard to replace? Could a Auto Parts Store have it?

The replacement of the subframe bushings can be expensier than the rear trans mount. So I would go with that next.

I can tell that the vibration comes from the center of the vehicle and stering and it feels like the vehicle is going to split in two, when going thru unevent pavement or hole.
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Old 06-14-2006, 03:32 AM   #7
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Could it very well be the inner tie rods... is the only thing I have not changed... besides the isolators and the trans mound described above posts..
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Old 06-20-2006, 02:26 AM   #8
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Took it to the shop and part of the vibration, was the EGR Valve-is replaced. The hesitation in drive gear is gone.

The clunk when releasing the gas and then acelarating is apparently from the chain in the gears in the Transmission.

The other hits, on wholes and Vibration at speed of 75 to 80mph is still there... I'm thinking the exhaust... it'* pretty shakin when I wiggle it. MIDAS once bent the exhaust pipe with blow torch because it was touching the floor of the vehicle and making a noise. That was from driving over a concrete cone.

Shoul I replace the whole exhaust. The middle of it is about 1 foot away from ground.
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Old 06-23-2006, 05:49 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
If your subframe bushings are shot, I'd like to know why. I've never seen a bad one.
I am in the middle of this project right now. On the 93 that I recently acquired, the right rear subframe bushing has failed because the outer lip on the lower retaining washer is completely rusted away. From under the car, you can see the rubber looks a little mangled and is bulging out. The resulting symptom is a rather loud pop occurring every once in awhile when cornering / braking / accelerating hard or driving over a large bump / curb / pothole. Do not have any vibration issues.
On my 92, the subframe rusted and completely split apart in front of the right control arm. (I was expecting this to happen a lot sooner because 12 years ago the car was in an accident in which the battery exploded). Long story short, I decided to go ahead and get a new subframe for this car since it runs fine otherwise. I went to the local junk yard last weekend and found two cars where the subframes had been partially removed. At first glance, neither appeared to be rusted very badly.
When I pulled the bushings out to inspect, I found problems. The lower bushings have a metal outer sleeve which inserts into a socket on the subframe. The metal sleeve on all existing lower bushings on both subframes was completely rusted away I mean only a pile of rust came out. The sockets on the subframe were heavily rusted too. The rear ones are deteriorated so badly that they wont hold new bushings. I am planning to weld repair the bad sockets in the frame I picked up.
The estimated $ for this project is subframe=$50, lower bushing (insulator)=6 X $6.52 ea (GMPD), local transmission shop will install frame for $150 ~ $200 (if I supply all parts), plus $ for wheel alignment.
Hoping my experience is just a fluke and not an omen for others. Both of the junk yard frames did not show any external signs of bushing problems. Even though metal sleeves were gone, the frame had not yet started to eat into the rubber real bad - however without the metal sleeve, I would think suspension might become a little more mushy. After seeing this deterioration, I am planning to do the same repairs to the 93 after I finish the 92.
Anyone else seen this?
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