Replace pullies only or whole assemblies? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-13-2005, 11:25 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBost37
All this extra time = more time for BEER.......

Notice he is taking pics as if it is in the car but he'* able to work on it easy because it'* out of the car.
What the heck are you doing up so early? Get back to bed!
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Old 06-13-2005, 12:15 PM   #12
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What about for me? I have an 18mm bolt, versus a torx head. Same **** for me, too? The bearings are shot on my idler, and I think I can cheap this one out, and if I can, I shall.



-justin
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Old 06-13-2005, 12:56 PM   #13
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Open..should be the same. Follow what Randman said above as to which way to try turning. Don't be afraid to try the other way in case it'* a reverse thread or regular thread.

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Old 06-13-2005, 02:04 PM   #14
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Justin, the LN3 pulley does appear to remove in much the same way as above without the need to remove the PS pump and TAM [Captian Obvious says so cause you don't have one]. But, I must warn you that I snapped the pulley and part of the tensioner arm off in an attempt to just remove the pulley. Oooops!

By looking at the backside, the threads appear to be reverse to both Bill and me but I did take a pic and will post it when I get home so you can take a look at it too.

Replacement of the pulleys is complete. The tensioner pulley was metal but the idler pulley continues to be a plastic one. They were just under $20 each when purchased at a local Delco distributor. I also replaced both belts and the T-stat while I was at it. What an easy job to do when the motor is on the floor but it would be substantially more time consuming if it were in the car. Like MOS says, make sure you have a big bag of curse words handy cause you'll need 'em.
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Old 06-13-2005, 02:52 PM   #15
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Well, turning the bolt counter-clockwise removes tension. I'll look in my FSM and see what it says. I just found out the bearings were shot last night, so I haven't done my research yet.


-justin
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Old 06-13-2005, 03:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opensourceguy
Well, turning the bolt counter-clockwise removes tension. I'll look in my FSM and see what it says. I just found out the bearings were shot last night, so I haven't done my research yet.


-justin
Right. That'* why you would turn it clockwise to loosen. Reverse threads.
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Old 06-13-2005, 05:10 PM   #17
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Here'* the pics:

Part numbers for pulleys. SC tensioner pulley on top, SC idler on bottom
Name:  DSC01730.jpg
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Tensioner pulley removed
Name:  DSC01731.jpg
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Idler pulley removed
Name:  DSC01732.jpg
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Busted LN3 tensioner arm
Name:  DSC01733.jpg
Views: 3
Size:  35.6 KB

Justin, I couldn't get a clear shot of the threads. it was either out of focus or you couldn't see the direction of the threads. Sorry.
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Old 06-13-2005, 05:41 PM   #18
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*Sorry this is off-topic* But, did you bolt the 90 torque-axis mount to the ser2 L67? If you did, could you take some pics of the area around the harmonic balancer and waterpump pullies?
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Old 06-13-2005, 06:32 PM   #19
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The 90 doesn't have a torque axis mount but there are threaded holes in the unibody for one. The 97 mount will bolt right up to the 90 body.
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Old 06-13-2005, 07:43 PM   #20
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ohhh yeah i forgot.
Thanks.
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