Although the instructions in Techinfo are for a 95, the only difference is that you don't have the two 7mm screws near the speakers in the front doors. Otherwise, all of the fasteners are the same.

There is no need to remove the grilles. You actually run the risk of breaking the small tabs that hold the grille in.

Yes, the lock slider will prevent the door panel from coming off so it must be removed. Use a screwdriver and pry upward on the front end of the slider while pressing inward on the back end. There is a small clip, sometimes it'* plastic built-in to the slider and sometimes it'* metal, that holds it agsinst the lock rod. This clip is right behind the orange section.

On my 93, there was actually 2 10mm bolts but my 97 only had one. I thought that maybe the door panel was removed once before and the others broke off. Keep an eye out for a second one. You must be a human super conductor cause 12v is not enough to shock us mere mortals.

There is a connector for the power mirror controls down the line about 8" or so. Pull the harness out of the door panel far enough to disconnect.

:?: :?: :?: You lost me on that one. There are 1-2 black push-in fasteners at the top of the armrest. It'* not necessary to remove any part of the armrest for door panel removal except for the trim and bolt described above.

No need to damage the switch controls by removing. The wires can simply be disconnected once the door panel is removed.



Here is a pic of my 93 door panel. Again, you will not have the two 7mm screws at the bottom front and may only have one 10mm screw behind the light. The blue dots indicate the approximate location of several push-in fasteners. These are pretty tight and usually require a trim tool to remove. When taking apart mt 97 donor car, I broke two from one door but all others survived. Invest in a trim fastener removal tool. Once the panel is loose from all it'* fasteners, the fun begins. That black strip at the top of the door panel is locked into the part of the door that also has the rubber thingy that touches the inside of the window. This can be a problem to release. I found it easier to remove that rubber part along with the door panel and detach it after it;* been removed from the car. It can be removed by prying upward while lifting upward on the door panel.

No, I didn't shock myself. Just a word of caution since it has exposed terminals running across the back. Who knows if you'll end up accidentally touching the terminals and, say, the inside of your tape player or something like that... I've been known for having just plain bad luck. One time, I got my tie stuck in the door. I didn't notice it until I had gotten to work and noticed various amounts of road filth on the end of my newly-creased tie.

^_^U Oh, okay. That makes my life easier (he says after destroying a couple).



Here is a pic of my 93 door panel. Again, you will not have the two 7mm screws at the bottom front and may only have one 10mm screw behind the light. The blue dots indicate the approximate location of several push-in fasteners. These are pretty tight and usually require a trim tool to remove. When taking apart mt 97 donor car, I broke two from one door but all others survived. Invest in a trim fastener removal tool. Once the panel is loose from all it'* fasteners, the fun begins. That black strip at the top of the door panel is locked into the part of the door that also has the rubber thingy that touches the inside of the window. This can be a problem to release. I found it easier to remove that rubber part along with the door panel and detach it after it;* been removed from the car. It can be removed by prying upward while lifting upward on the door panel.[/quote]

Yeah, there'* only one bolt behind the light. All right, now I need a trim tool. Will something else work, like a small flathead screwdriver?

small breaker bar, think they are called wonder bars, will work in a pinch
they are flat and have a small v notch in them

This is what I had in mind. It'll be worth the $10 or so. You should be able to find these at most larger auto parts stores. I use a Blue Point (Snap-On) tool that you squeeze like a pair of tin snips and it pops the fasteners out. It works very well and is worth every penny if you do a lot of interior work.

I've seen a few Grand Prixs (one with the Pontiac trunk light mod), but only one other Bonneville to date, another polo green SE IIRC. It was speeding in the rightmost lane of the highway (might have been I-691 east), and I passed it from the leftmost lane.

Anyway, near me are an Autozone, Pep Boys, Napa Auto Parts and an Internet connection. Where can I likely find a trim tool (preferably offline)?

On SSEI.. there'* no 2 screws on the side of the speaker and the center bolt is here.. behind the door light


Mustafa has been too drunk to update the techinfo.. but mind you I haven't checked cause I"m tryin to catch up to him..