Rear strut woes... and ball joint question
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Rear strut woes... and ball joint question
So yesterday I learned 2 lessons trying to change my rear struts:
1) Use an impact socket not a standard 21mm socket. I had to put so much torque on the strut-to-control arm bolt that I tore the socket apart (luckily it has a lifetime warranty).
2) Don't take off the strut tower bolts before taking off the strut-to-control arm bolts, contrary to the Haynes manual. Break the lower bolts loose FIRST, then take off the strut tower bolts. Otherwise the strut will rattle back and forth as you're trying to loosten those rusted lower bolts.
Now my question:
With the rear sway bar and the rear strut disconnected from the control arm, is the ball joint supposed to keep the wheel hub upright? I can't take my hands off the hub or it will fall over.
1) Use an impact socket not a standard 21mm socket. I had to put so much torque on the strut-to-control arm bolt that I tore the socket apart (luckily it has a lifetime warranty).
2) Don't take off the strut tower bolts before taking off the strut-to-control arm bolts, contrary to the Haynes manual. Break the lower bolts loose FIRST, then take off the strut tower bolts. Otherwise the strut will rattle back and forth as you're trying to loosten those rusted lower bolts.
Now my question:
With the rear sway bar and the rear strut disconnected from the control arm, is the ball joint supposed to keep the wheel hub upright? I can't take my hands off the hub or it will fall over.
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in order for the ball joint to work properly the tie rod ed has to be connected also with the strut because the ball joint is designed to move fairly easy if they are greased same for tie rod end
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I should mention that before I took the wheel off, I raised it on jackstands and wiggled it back and forth... there wasn't really any play in it, maybe 1/4 inch or so but not much. So I assume the balljoint is OK?
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