Rear Stabilizer or Sway Bar Replacement - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 12-19-2005, 01:22 PM   #1
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Default Rear Stabilizer or Sway Bar Replacement

What'* up guys.

My rear sway bar rusted through at the drivers side link. Should I get a direct replacement or is there something a little beefier?

GMParts direct has two numbers...one for standard and one for sport.
Will the sport fit my SE, and is it beefier than the standard???

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks,
Eric
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Old 12-19-2005, 01:42 PM   #2
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Are you talking about the bar itself, or the bolt that holds it on?

If it is the bar, then you could get an SSE/SSEi swaybar from a junkyard, which is beefier. Not sure if there is an alternative to that. Also, you'll want to get energy suspension end links when replacing either the bar or the bolt (the bushing kit is actually the bolt) They'll help stiffen up the ride and make handling better. Also a good idea to do front endlinks as well.
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Old 12-19-2005, 01:59 PM   #3
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Yes...it is the actual bar and i replaced the front and rear end links with the Energy Suspension (red bushings) last year.

Just need the actual sway bar.

So an SSE sway bar will work and is more beefier, correct?
Does it matter what year?

Eric
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Old 12-19-2005, 02:04 PM   #4
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I am not 100% sure, but you should be able to get 92-99, but at minimum 92-95. If I was closer to getting my parts car apart I'd sell ya the one I have, but it probably won't be coming off til spring.

You'll want to get one for the FE2 suspension, and you might also want to get the front one as well. Should be fairly cheap at a yard. I know CorvetteCrazy has done swaybars on his 96 SE so he might be able to give you more advise.
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Old 12-19-2005, 02:37 PM   #5
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Yes, I replaced both front and rear with the larger sways. 32mm front and 21mm rear.

You can replace jsut the rear bar, that is where you will notice the biggest difference, 15 to 21mm is a noticable jump. the front goes from about 30 to 32mm. Which is much harder to notice the difference but I'm sure it is that way for a reason.

The rear bar is EASY. When you get the larger bar you will also need the 2 center links that hold the bar, because the bar is larger so are those brackets. The easiest way to do the back is jack it up (put it on stands) take the wheels off...endlinks should be cake since you replaced them already and then just unbolt the center links from the frame. Same goes for the one you pull from the yard or buy from somewhere.

Taking your time and joking around if you have a friend around, it should take an hour (maybe 2) tops to change the bars. For me that time included sheering off the old endlinks.
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Old 12-19-2005, 02:48 PM   #6
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If the sway bar rusted through....can you get a pic of that.

I'd be concerned with the frame and other thinner metal in that area.

Don't think I've ever heard of a sway bar rusting out.
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Old 12-19-2005, 02:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Don't think I've ever heard of a sway bar rusting out.
its the 2nd bar that I have heard of. There was one on the forum a good time ago.
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Old 12-19-2005, 03:50 PM   #8
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I would do both bars. You'll have a handling imbalance if you don't.
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Old 12-19-2005, 03:51 PM   #9
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Good point Bill W..

The front can be done w/o the rear with less of a difference...but the rear would make a larger imbalance.
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Old 12-19-2005, 08:04 PM   #10
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Thanks guys for all the info.

I have located a 21mm sway bar off of a 1998 SSE for about $40. Seems pretty good and is guranteed. I will request the center links with it.

I will get a pic up of the broken bar as soon as I can. The first indication was that it rusted...won't know for sure until I get busy with it. The steering is very washy...a lot of play going into turns.

I'm also going to do the front....maybe not in the same day.

Eric
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