Rear reading lights (Update, they work) - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-16-2005, 11:51 PM   #21
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Yep. That picture of the headliner in in my basement
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Old 05-17-2005, 12:25 AM   #22
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So... umm... any chance you could figure out what areas could be damaged and cause both rear lights to not function? Since you got one on hand and all... Pretty please...
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Old 05-17-2005, 07:13 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
So... umm... any chance you could figure out what areas could be damaged and cause both rear lights to not function? Since you got one on hand and all... Pretty please...
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Originally Posted by BillBost37
Here'* my theory. If you don't see any burnt wires then check the connectors. Add a little dielecric while you are there. So far most of the electrical gremlins in my car were solved with a little contact cleaner and some dielectric grease.
Have you tested for voltage with a multimeter? Most likely the wiring didn't just burn up or have a problem. Your problem is most likely power or a connector. I really doubt it'* overhead.
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Old 05-17-2005, 08:21 AM   #24
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I'm with Bill on this one. These splices and whatnot are put together very well and have a very small likelyhood of becoming "bad". Once you remove the rear grab handles, you will have to give the wires a gentle pull to get at the connector. Sometimes, you'll need to insert your hand up to pull. Remember: tape and staple(*). Disconnect and test at the connectors. Heck, even bench test the light assemblies.

I couldn't think of one area that if damaged would produce the results you have. There would be other problems

I read your first post again and it reminded me of something. I had a Camaro once upon a time and one night I got in and sat there wondering what was so different about this time. I finally realized that the lens and bulb were removed from the dome light. I thought that was darn strange until I noticed the entire contents of the center console scattered through the interior of the car. It was a break in and the dome light was popped out for stealth mode.
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Old 05-17-2005, 01:02 PM   #25
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Well it can't be the connector because the front lights and the visor lights still work. So it has to between where the power for the front lights and rear lights split. Do the rear lights have their own ground, possibly?
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Old 05-17-2005, 01:21 PM   #26
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There'* two ground sources: white wire which turns the lights on when the doors are opened and black wire which allows the lights to be turned manually. That'* why there is a three wire connector to each of the rear lights.

Have you bench tested the lights and probed the connectors for the rear lights yet? I'm trying to save you the trouble of dropping the headliner.
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Old 05-17-2005, 01:34 PM   #27
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Ok..drop the headliner. Pull that furry little gremlin outta there. I've heard the headliners aren't too bad to pull.
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Old 05-17-2005, 01:45 PM   #28
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I haven't touched them yet. Just trying to get an idea of where to start.
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Old 10-30-2005, 09:00 PM   #29
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Well, in the process of putting in a new handle today, they work!!

I tested the wiring for voltage, and it had 12 volts. Hooked the original light backup, nothing. Swapped bulbs... nothing. Swapped handles, and it works.

So I go to the driver side handle, pop the cover off, test it, has good voltage. Stick my small screwdriver in to pop out the bulb, and it suddenly pops on. WTF... I jiggle the bulb, doesn't go out. OK. I put some dielectric grease on the ends, popped the covers back on and went on my merrily lit way.
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Old 10-30-2005, 09:08 PM   #30
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cars are weird
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