My brake pedal travels to the floor and I notice that the left rear brake line close to the brake valve proportioners is leaking and both are real rusted. Could anyone teach me how to replace these lines without replacing the entire brake line?

I guess Ill throw those Valves away. I don't really do panic stops anyway. Would I be able to use the vales off a 91 and earlier Bonneville since they're mounted in the engine bay and less likely to be rusted out. Because I would dare pay $50 each for them.

Are you're valves leaking?

I was able to unscrew the nut on the good side of the brakeline for both valves. Since I didn't care about the 'bad' side I cut it out and it was alot easier to get it apart with a socket and some soaking w/PB Blaster afterwards.

The vlaves make a convenient connecting point and you can use regular lengths of brake line back to the wheel cylinders from there.

On the wheel cylinders, if the nut doesn't loosen easily, cut the line and use a socket & pb blaster rather than risk stripping the nut edges. And don't be afraid to heat 'em up with a propane torch.

I'm not sure if the valves are leaking, but I'm just going to install a whole new line without the valve for now. I'll go to the junkyard I try to pull some valves off a 1990 or earlier Bonneville.
Also, I was thinking before I attach the new line, I'll fill the MC with fluid, because it was dry. Then pump up the brakes until they become hard and reconnect the brake line. Instead of bench bleeding the MC. If this actually works!

You can bench bleed the MC while its on the car and level. Bench bleed the MC please.

I am having the exact same problem as you are and I was wondering if these connections are imperial or metric?? I am going to change the front line and the back line becuase they both seem to be leaking...Any tips for this work???

I do plan on using the porportioning block as well I will just get the rusted line out of there some way or another..

THanks,

if you're doing the left rear you may need a 3/8 male to 3/16 female brake line adapter for the ABS pump located in the engine, 2 long 3/16 lines (i didn't use metric and it works fine), and 1 short 3/16 line. You will also need 4 3/16 fittings to connect the brake lines. If you're doing the right rear you will need the same amoutn of hardware stated above plus another long line. You don't really need the proportion valve from my experience. If you don't feel like bleeding the brakes or the MC (if you ran out of fluid) then right before you connect the line, add brake fluid, pump the brakes until they become hard and not touch the floor(with the car off), then have someone pump the brakes until you see the fluid come out and connect the line while the brakes are being pumped. This isn't the proper way to do this, but **** my brakes stop way better than before. Plus I had no choice because it started to snow and I was already freezing cold.

EDIT: I'll have to find and look at my receipts for the exact size of brake lines. and you only need the adapters for the rear brake lines, but I'm not too sure about your model.

Allright thanks...I guess I have to take back the 3/8 line I bought and just get a adaptor to the porpotioning valve to go from 3/16-3/8....Are these adaptors readily availible?

Thanks,

I would not remove the proportioning valves from the line. They are there for a purpose. They balance the braking load between the front and rear brakes, and provide the maximum braking effect without wheel lockup.

From my personal experience, DO NOT delete the proportioning valves. I did from a Buick Century I had (I was 14 at the time, wasn't too bright) and my brake shoes wore out in about 3 weeks. they are there to properly balance the brakes, as the fronts need more braking power than the backs. Also if they were removed, you would have a VERY hard time braking in the winter, as full force on all 4 will make you slide everywhere, no matter how soft you push.