Power Window Motor Replacement - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-07-2005, 03:41 PM   #1
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Default Power Window Motor Replacement

now that its summer i can finally get aorund to this, the motor on the RL window is dead, i have a new motor, but befor ei try anything i wanna know if anyone knows how to put it in, i have the motor only, so icant just pop off the whole structure and put on the new one, its al little more complicated
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Old 04-07-2005, 03:46 PM   #2
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I was planning on doing this soon also. I haven't taken a real good look, but I assumed it was an unbolt old, bolt in new type of deal.

Anyone know otherwise?
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Old 04-07-2005, 04:06 PM   #3
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well when i got the motor from the junkyard i practically destroyed that door getitng the motor out, granted i didnt have all my tools, but it still seemed kind complicated, i dont exactly rember the issue of why it was so hard to get out but i tihnk it was a bolt that was hard to reach, if thats the case than the presense of my tools would make it eays, but i just dont remember
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Old 04-08-2005, 11:10 AM   #4
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92 up I beleive had bolts. When I did my 90 you have to drill out the rivets and install
your own replacement bolts.
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Old 04-08-2005, 02:44 PM   #5
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Default Re: bolts

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Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
92 up I beleive had bolts. When I did my 90 you have to drill out the rivets and install your own replacement bolts.
Bolts are usually a sign of a previous replacement. I know our '96 Trans Sport still had riveted motors when I needed to replace one.

Anyway, the rivets are a breeze to remove as long as you knock the center stem into the door with a small punch first. After that, the rivet head itself can be drilled out in seconds. The rivet stem is a very hard metal; the rivet head itself is soft.

Choose your drill bit size carefully: you need only drill out the diameter of the rivet hole, not the diameter of the rivet _head_. Enlarging the hole by mistake can bring on other problems. Start with a small drill and go to a larger one only if needed.

You'll have the old rivets out in less time than it took me to write this.
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Old 04-08-2005, 02:47 PM   #6
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Default Re: Power Window Motor Replacement

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Originally Posted by NERV
now that its summer i can finally get around to this, the motor on the RL window is dead
P.*. How dead is "dead," anyway? If you're talking about the Left Rear door, the motor can gum up from lack of use. If you try thumping on it or driving around with your finger on the down button for that window, it might spring to life. If it does, run it up and down about 20 times and it'll probably be fine after that.

If you get to the point of dismantling the door, make one last attempt to run it after you tap the motor casing itself with a small hammer or whatever. It might start going again.
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Old 04-08-2005, 05:07 PM   #7
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Default motor

I beleive my 96 bonne was designed with bolts although I have not taken them apart yet.
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Old 04-08-2005, 05:43 PM   #8
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Default Re: Power Window Motor Replacement

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Originally Posted by acg_ssei
Quote:
Originally Posted by NERV
now that its summer i can finally get around to this, the motor on the RL window is dead
P.*. How dead is "dead," anyway? If you're talking about the Left Rear door, the motor can gum up from lack of use. If you try thumping on it or driving around with your finger on the down button for that window, it might spring to life. If it does, run it up and down about 20 times and it'll probably be fine after that.

If you get to the point of dismantling the door, make one last attempt to run it after you tap the motor casing itself with a small hammer or whatever. It might start going again.
tried it, no go, ill just replace it
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Old 04-08-2005, 09:38 PM   #9
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Default Re: motor

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Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
I beleive my 96 bonne was designed with bolts although I have not taken them apart yet.
Whoops, you're right. I just checked the '93 manual here at home, and the motor (or "actuator") is held in by three nuts on the transmission housing (the motor hangs down from it). Take off the three nuts, unplug the wiring harness and it should come right out.

Torque setting on the nuts when reinstalling should be 10 Nm (86 Lb./In.) (that'* _inch_ pounds), if you're picky.
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Old 04-09-2005, 11:41 PM   #10
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I these today. I took off all four motors from the parts car, put one front and one rear on mine. The fronts were three bolts that held themselves in place so you could turn the 10mm nut off. On the rear ones of both the 93 and 92, one of the bolts is not held in place. It spins when you try to turn the nut. So, I had to guess at crecent wrenches until I got the right one on the head of the bolt. My hands are too big, I've decided. It was difficult to get my hand at the right angle to hold the wrench on it. It turned out to be 8mm. Same bolt on all three rear doors I messed with today.

Just a heads up.
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