Power Steering Fluid Leak detection - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 06-27-2005, 03:50 PM   #11
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tell me how that goes mine is just stared to seep at the compression fitting and am diffenetly going follow this post.
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Old 06-27-2005, 04:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xaa
Yep, it'* the second shot he has with the cooler and the lines. the cooler part is just super rusted out and that'* what is leaking. I can see from his pic and I already learned from the dealer that the lines come attached to the cooler. I got the part number from them 26042308 and ordered it from GMPartsDirect.

Here is the pricing breakdwon. Meineke told me $250 for the part, my GM Dealer told me $137 for it and GMPartsDirect sold it to me for $74.58. It comes to around $95 after shipping and tax, but still a great price.

OK, now someone just ttell me that this is a cake repair.
Not sure that I can tell you it'* cake. To make it easier I can suggest a few things though. Get a can or two of PB Blaster (a really good penetrant) from your local parts store. Start soaking the fittings where the go into the pump/rack. Spray them about once a day or every other day. Ensure you have line wrenches. These are wrenches that are mearly closed like a box end, but six pointed and very strong. They keep you from rounding out the fittings. If you don't know a line wrench go to either your parts store or Sears...tell them you are looking for line wreches...they all have them.

Eat plenty of food with iron it in, this will help when your blood supply is replenishing. You may also want to get a pair of mechanics gloves to try and save a few bloody knuckles.
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Old 06-28-2005, 10:50 PM   #13
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It'* actually not too bad if you are replacing the smaller, finned cooler line. Since your original is FUBAR you can simply cut the line with a hack saw close to the rack fitting to use a deep well socket instead of a flare nut wrench. PB blaster is always a good idea as suggested. If you decide to use a flare nut wrench, wear cushioned gloves cause the exhaust heat shields are very sharp.

The PS pump end is a standard hose clamp and usually is no problem. There are also a couple of retainers that bolt to the subframe. No problem here either.
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Old 06-29-2005, 07:47 AM   #14
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Thanks for the tips Randman!! The part is special ordered now from GMPArtsDirect.com. I love the price, but hate the wait. :( I'm trying to keep fluid in there all the time. How much damage am I causing to this thing as it runs low and/or out?

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Old 06-29-2005, 08:13 AM   #15
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Running out of fluid not only can damage the PS pump but it'* also a safety issue. I'd limit the time you operate the car until it'* fixed.
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Masterbm
tell me how that goes mine is just stared to seep at the compression fitting and am diffenetly going follow this post.
It went fine. I took randman'* suggestion and cut the line then used a deep well to remove it. That was simple. Actually I think it wouldn't have been too tough with a standard wrench either, but this was too easy to try the other way. Then I attached to the rack, then attached the cooler, then the hose to the resevoir. Filled it, bled it and all seems well now.

The part took about a week and a half to show up from GMPartsdirect.com, but it was $75 vs. $137 from the dealer and in their defense, there was a holiday in there.

All things considered, this is a do it yourselfer.

Bill
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