Need advise.. Over the weekend my service engine light activated on the highway after passing another car. I think that I pushed the car to far and possible blow something. Anyways, I recall Red Lining the RPM and now the scan reading shows that I got code p0332d knock sensor low voltage bank 2.

I took it to the mechnic and there is a engine knock at idle and more noticable under load.

Mechnic is recommending to rebuild the engine.... (cost 1800 for rebuild plus 18 hours of labour).. Is this necessary or can something else be done??

THis car has a history of engine failures (UIM problems) and already invested to much $$$. Appreciate any suggestions or diagnostics to determine if I really need to rebuild the engine. Is there any checks i can perform before pulling the engine out and spending $$$.

The noice sounds like playing card on a bicycle wheel. The faster you go the more frequence or pitch.

Cheers,

First check is the oil pressure when warm and idling. What number are you seeing?

Next up, I'd mention that bank 2 is the rear O2 sensor and if it'* giving you a code, most likely your catalytic is performing below expectations. I'd ask for more information before writing it off.

P0332... uh..what'* that one?

Idling (1000) - it hovers above the red zone.
Idling (1500 - 2000) it hovers just below the half mark. Sorry for the lame response but the car is at the station and I needed to get back to work. I know this from memory.

I was talking to some other guys at work and they indicated to add some oil addatives before driving it after work. There reasoning behind this is that if the rod bearing spun then it could help in reducing any additional problems for tonight.

I have a reader and the code is knocking. I also got some misfire codes, EGR codes but that could of been during the UIM period. It sounds like lower engine.

From Techinfo
DTC P0332 Knock Sensor (KS) 2 Circuit


I'd need to research that one further to know what it really meant. Meanwhile the pressure isn't horrible yet, it'* probably not long before it'* worse though.

In terms of the oil pressure - I sneaked out and ran it for 5 mins and its at around 275. I know that normally when driving it goes down just above red line. Checked the oil and its just below the add oil line. Never leaks oil since I had that fixed two summers ago.

I have other problems with the car prior to this event but were all related to the steering alignments, vibration in the front, etc. Never had noise from the engine.

Man I hope this doesn't strand me at night.

Thanks for your insight and hopefully is something minor. Not a good time since I was planning a march break retreat.

Cheers,

If it were me, and I suspected a toasted rod bearing, I'd go ahead and pull the oil pan and have a look. It'* not too difficult to do on these cars, and you'll know for sure whether or not you've a bad bearing. I'd do this before you turn the babbit material into fine powder which will infiltrate the oil system and really trash things.

Thanks for the advise.

On another note that I wanted to share with the group. The noise goes away on the highway (at least is reduced) around 100Km. But the noise is very much noticable on lower speeds below 3rd gear. I took it to a local transmission place and he thinks it might be the harmonic balancer?? Took it to a second mechnic and he thinks it the rod bearings by the noise. Could it be the harmonic balancer?

Recap the symptoms:
1. Oil pressure when cold is around 275.
2. Oil pressure during idle 1000-1500 hot is just above the red line.
3. Oil pressure during speed 60-100K (2000 RPM) is about 275. Drops dramically when coming down to a complete stop (just above the red).
4. The noise is not noticable when cold. When you rev the engine 2000 you can hear the knock.
5. After 3rd gear the frequency of the knock is reduced.
6. Car had a check engine light when overpassing (red lined RPM).
7. Engine light off - Scanner indicated a knock sensor as indicated in the above post.
8. Car has a history of engine failures. This is the second engine due to UIM problems.
9. This is the second UIM replaced.
10. The front end always vibrated - just added this in case something might be causing the noise.

I beleive that the engine has failed but I dont want to pull the engine unless I am totally certain that this is the problem. When you drop the oil pan what should be visible. Should i see metal. I hestitate because i dont trust mechnics anymore. There are good ones but not were i am located. GM Dealerships are even worst. At least the experience i have had. This is my second bonneville (1990 and 9 and both are draining my wallet. At first i thought I had a lemon but what worries me is that they come in threes and two is enough. Convince me this is not the case.....

Appreciate your responses and let me know if any one wants parts for a 98. If it is a engine issue then I dumping the car..... Not worth the pain and stress knowing that there might be a third incident awaiting....

Cheers,

You will see the main and rod bearing caps connected to the crankshaft and you will see the oil strainer and pick-up tube. You may have to undo the strainer to gain access to all the rod caps (can't remember). Rotate the engine by hand with a wrench so that each rod cap is at the bottom of its stroke (closest to you under the car). Grab hold of each cap and see if it will move on the journal. It is ok if it slides back and forth on the journal, that is, across the car from the passenger to driver side or vice versa. If the bottom end of any rod moves back and forht (from the front of the car to the back) or up and down (in the direction of piston travel, even a little bit, it is bad. Try to wiggle all the rod bearings and compare how they feel. It is amazing how just a few thousandths of an inch of extra clearance can cause such a loud noise.

Obviously you should investigate all easy sources of the noise first, before pulling the oil pan. The oil pan is easy to remove on the 92-99 (not so easy on a 2000+, since it appears to be part of the motor mount! ). It'* just a bit messy...you'll have oil dripping off the bottom of the engine. Follow Bill'* directions above for checking the rods. Remember, side to side movement is OK, front to back (with relation to the car) is not good. If you find no problems there, at least you'll have the peace of mind knowing your bearings are alright.

I see harmonic balancer was also mentioned. This is more common the 92-95 cars so far. Whether it is due to age or something else, I'm unsure.

The easy way to tell if the balancer is bad is to look at it whle not running. If the rubber on the face looks cracked or badly broken, that would indicate a bad balancer. However the noise you are describing does not have the typical symptoms of a balancer.

Noisy at idle, quite when power is applied and on the gas.