Please Help... How do you remove the harmonic balancer? - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-09-2006, 07:39 PM   #1
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Default Please Help... How do you remove the harmonic balancer?

The belts and wheel are off.

I have the impact wrench, but can't get the bolt to budge. Is it reverse thread? Any tricks to loosening it?

I'm ready to go with the puller, but I had to go to Tractor Supply to get M6 bolts. Please help!

THanks.[/img]
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Old 12-09-2006, 07:42 PM   #2
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i couldnt get my impact to get mine either... i ended up using a breaker bar with a large pipe on it.. those things are on TIGHT!
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Old 12-09-2006, 08:08 PM   #3
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Post from another thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Here'* how I do tough ones by hand. Pin the flex plate as previously described. Make sure the pin is strong stuff, as big in diameter as possible, and nice and tight against the block. After removing the wheel and splash shield, set up a jack stand to support a long 1/2" drive extension with the 30mm (?) 6-point socket on the crank bolt. That keeps you straight on the bolt. This is not optional.

Here is the same setup for removing the backwards bolt on the trans:


Then I typically use a 15" long flex handle over which I slip a 4-foot long cheater bar. Mine is heavy wall rectangular bar stock, but schedule 40 black pipe 1-1'2" would do nicely also. Set it up so the bar is at about 10 O' clock and push down on the end of the bar. That will give you an honest 800 ft-lb of torque if you are 200 lb like me. Still won't come? Stand on the end of the bar and bounce up and down while a friend provides the "impact" with a 4 or 8-pound sledge not too close to your feet. With that kind of force, something will give, and most often, it is the bolt breaking free.

The socket must fit tightly, is better if 6-point and must be held straight in line with,and all the way down on the bolt. Otherwise, with the kind of force you are applying, you will round the edges of a stuck bolt. If you have one, a breaker bar is a better choice, as flex handles will spread and break under this kind of force. And finally, 3/4" drive would be ideal. You should be able to rent the 3/4" drive stuff for not too much $.

Mark is right about the WD-40. It is useless as a penetrant. I like PB (Power Blaster penetrating oil) - it is very good stuff. When you get the bolt out, clean it up and apply some anti-seize to it so the next guy doesn't have to work so hard. You never know- it could be you!
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Old 12-11-2006, 03:30 PM   #4
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Default Got it!!!

Thanks for all the tips guys! Here'* what I did to get it loose:

I took a 5 ft steel pipe to use as a breaker bar and positioned it vertically through the engine bay on a 1/2 drive. To get enough clearance to move the breaker bar, I had to remove the hood. If you do this, be careful not to break the windshield! I rigged a preventative barrier out of 2x4s.

It was really stuck and I thought I was going to break something. What would a shop do if the bolt had broken or the head became stripped?
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Old 12-11-2006, 03:41 PM   #5
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Default Re: Got it!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercharged!
Thanks for all the tips guys! Here'* what I did to get it loose:

I took a 5 ft steel pipe to use as a breaker bar and positioned it vertically through the engine bay on a 1/2 drive. To get enough clearance to move the breaker bar, I had to remove the hood. If you do this, be careful not to break the windshield! I rigged a preventative barrier out of 2x4s.

It was really stuck and I thought I was going to break something. What would a shop do if the bolt had broken or the head became stripped?
Good for you! They can be exciting, huh?

If the bolt breaks, no problem. The threads are not usually rusty. Once the head is gone, you can pull the HB as usual. Then left-hand drill the broken bolt and use an easy out. With the head gone, the tension will be gone from the bolt and it should back out fairly easily.

If the head of the bolt becomes rounded (bad mechanics) then the head would need to be ground off and the remainder of the bolt removed as described above.
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Old 12-11-2006, 03:52 PM   #6
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Good to know.

I forgot to mention that I also torched it for a few minutes with a Mapp Oxygen torch. I was a little woried that I'd cook the HB, but seems to be just fine.

Is there a way to upload pictures here? or do I need to find a 3rd party to host them?
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Old 12-11-2006, 04:33 PM   #7
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You need a third party.

I had a harder time on my 93 than I did on my 95. On the 93, I ALMOST removed the hood, but I got a breaker extension that would work for me.
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Old 12-11-2006, 09:16 PM   #8
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I am forever grateful I had Boosty with air tools to help me on this project. Took 15 minutes.

Took less than 10 minutes the 4th time. lol
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Old 12-12-2006, 01:34 AM   #9
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Being in a family of plumbers, I used a 48'' Rigid aluminum pipe wrench around the sucker, and a breaker bar on the bolt. I know it'* prolly metric, but 15/16'' works just fine
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Old 12-12-2006, 07:57 AM   #10
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Air tools are nice, as are electric impact. However you must have a pretty good gun to get HB bolts. They are torqued and usually have a little thread locker.

500ft lbs is what my air gun has and it takes a moment to get those bolts off.
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