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Old 10-18-2006, 10:20 PM   #1
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Default plastic fuel line connections

i had to change the sending unit for the simple fact of it rusting where the plastic and metal lines connect and it was leaking. i also broke the metal lines off a few inches away from the connecting point because i am unable to get the old metal lines out of the fuel lines. anyone got any ideas on how i am to do this i know there are the clips but i push the in and nothing. 92 bonneville also the brake lines got in ther way a lil bit and it to is also leaking will i be able to bypas the proportioning valve, and if not where can i get a new one.
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Old 10-19-2006, 08:28 AM   #2
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Fuel lines should release when you push the plastic line and metal together while squeezing the clips. However..the o ring in there can be dry and stick. A little penetrant can work wonders.

On the brake lines.. your local parts stores should have a new proportioning valve.
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Old 10-19-2006, 08:43 AM   #3
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so that is what them two things are side by side in the back and there is no way to bypass them.
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Old 10-19-2006, 09:11 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by kilroy357
so that is what them two things are side by side in the back and there is no way to bypass them.
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Old 10-19-2006, 09:18 AM   #5
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in the back by the gas tank there are two things on each brake line that i was told they are proportioning valves and i cant bypass them. but they are about the size of a 5/8 deepwell socket and they are side by side. i have a 92 se. that where the line is leaking where it screws into one of them.
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Old 10-19-2006, 10:11 AM   #6
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A member on here bypassed the proportioning valve and to date has had no issues. Maybe Ryan will chime in on his experience soon.
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Old 10-19-2006, 09:51 PM   #7
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ok got the fuel lines fixed all good there had to get a new feed line which cost me 35 dollars in which the guy made me a brand new one, but i am being told that i need the valves in order to stop by some people, and other are saying i dont need them , the bad part is i have to replace both back lines and i have to bypass both valves now. so anyone with any knowledge on how all that stuff works id appreciate some info, and thanks to the rest of you that told me some stuff.
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Old 10-19-2006, 11:06 PM   #8
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My opinion is that the brakes are not something you mess with, or modify in any way except to make them work better. The proportioning valves help to equalized the pressure between the front and rear brakes so that each start to lockup at the proper time. Without the valves the back may lockup before the front, and that is not what you want. This is from "How Stuff Works"

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Proportioning Valve
The proportioning valve reduces the pressure to the rear brakes. Regardless of what type of brakes a car has, the rear brakes require less force than the front brakes.

The amount of brake force that can be applied to a wheel without locking it depends on the amount of weight on the wheel. More weight means more brake force can be applied. If you have ever slammed on your brakes, you know that an abrupt stop makes your car lean forward. The front gets lower and the back gets higher. This is because a lot of weight is transferred to the front of the car when you stop. Also, most cars have more weight over the front wheels to start with because that is where the engine is located.

If equal braking force were applied at all four wheels during a stop, the rear wheels would lock up before the front wheels. The proportioning valve only lets a certain portion of the pressure through to the rear wheels so that the front wheels apply more braking force. If the proportioning valve were set to 70 percent and the brake pressure were 1,000 pounds per square inch (psi) for the front brakes, the rear brakes would get 700 psi.
Taken from this article.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/master-brake2.htm

They aren't that expensive, and would be considered by many to be a safety item.
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Old 10-19-2006, 11:34 PM   #9
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i hear ya on the brake thing i hate messing with them , but ill still have brakes from what i understand of it the only thing is they are gunna be a lil more touchy in the back. the back wheels locked up before the front did anyhow when i slammed on the brakes before all of this, so i'm guessing they was bad to begin with not sure though. the abs system is all unplugged not sure on what happened to them when i put the fuse in and push the brakes to stop the pedal goes to the floor and the motors kick in giving me brakes. just never had the money to check and see what the problem is with it. and thanks for the info. they way i was hearing from the parts store is that there will be no braking power to the rear wheels. thats why i was a little confused on the subject.
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Old 10-22-2006, 11:12 PM   #10
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i had just replaced the sending unit a couple days ago and this started today whenever i am coming to a stop goin down a hill and i accelerate my car is acting like it wants to stall out and the float seems to fluctuate a lil more but thats ok it works, all i am concerned with is the stuttering problem goin down a hil is the only time it will do it when it seems the gas goes forward when stopping no other time i have a half tank also, plus i looked to see if any connections were leaking and saw the new line i put on had a little crimp in it i must of bent it when i snapped it on the sending unit just wondering if that would have anything to do with it or if there is something else i screwed up
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