ok, pretty much 2 questions here. 1. how can I know if the buttons that control the performance/normal shift and performance/normal ride and traction control are woking properly? at the time being, they are all lit up except for performance shift and i would like to fix it so that they light up correctly. Question 2: how does the performance ride option work and do I need to do any maintenance to it?

i'll thank you all in advance!

Performance ride stiffens the ride a bit, so it will ride rougher.

Performance shift will up the shift points a little bit, sorry, can't remember what those points are.

So all your lights are on? If you push the button do they go off?

if i remember correctly, the lights are lit like they should when you start the car, then after a few seconds, they all go on. you can get the performance shift/ normal shift ones to work if you continuously click the performance shift button but i don't notice any difference in the way it drives. the normal ride/ performance ride buttons will not go off for anything. i think the traction control button works intermediately.

The only real difference in performance shift will be at WOT. As for traction control I think you will have a light on the dash saying traction control off. My car does that.

I have the same problem with the normal ride /performance light on my 98 ssei. I looked it up in the Mitchel repair Manual. According to the manual the computer does a self check every time you start the engine. If you put a jumper wire in the test connection under your steering column you can check it. Connect a jumper wire between Light Green and Black wire terminals of the Data LInk Connector. The light will give you a 'flash code'. Led will remain off for 3 seconds then it will flash Code 12, three times. If your system is working properly thats all it will do, if there is a problem it will flash additional codes to show the problem. Code #* 23, 24, 25, and 26 are for actuator position error at one of the four struts. Each of your struts has a little electric valve on the top of it that moves to one of three positions to restrict shock fluid to give you a firmer or softer ride. In the self test that it does it cycles this valve to each position to confirm it is working properly. If it does not, both leds will remain illuminated and you will get an error code when you perform the diagnostic test. Apparently the valve is not serviceable and strut replacement is the only way to fix it. I have opted for using the small piece of electrical tape technique... The same procedure that has worked so well for years when the service engine soon light comes on.

When both lights on the ride are lit, there is an issue with one of the shocks usually. In most cases, it'* not worth fixing it, and replacing it with regular ELC struts is really the best, cheapest option. I don't know if you can get the struts anymore either, and if you do, they're usually $500-700 each.

would the same codes appear if i had the car scanned at autozone?

also, i just wanted to add that today i took a look at the strut tower sensors and i couldn't see the ones in the back but i could feel the wires and it seemed like i could feel a broken wire on one. how many wires go to the rear sensors?

Not sure about the capability of the scanner at Auto Zone. I did it myself as discribed above. It'a pretty simple. I don't think you can hurt anything. There is just one small cable at each strut. I am not sure how many conductors, probably just three or four.

Check your wheel spin sensors, the plugs my be corroded.