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Old 01-11-2008, 05:40 PM   #1
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Default Passenger Door Lock Motor Replacement (Service Manaul Help?)

I need to install a new lock motor on the passenger side front door, I pulled the panel off awhile back and decided it was too complicated to just dig in to without any idea of what'* involved. So, anyone ever done one on their own and can describe the process? Or anyone with a repair manual willing to list out a few directions?

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Old 01-11-2008, 10:49 PM   #2
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Did we talk previously about this on the forum? I remember your name. I believe we both were looking for help with our power door locks. Well luckily I fixed mine! Just got home from doing my strut and wheel hub job so i'll edit this post in 10 mins with detailed instructions.

Ok!

The actuator/motor which you need to replace is actually screwed on by 3 small screws on to that black part which is in the middle left of the door(middle right for you). My mistake was thinking that I needed to replace the entire thing.

The black piece with the actuator attached to it is what all the rods lead up to. it will be kind of buried. Basically look at your door latch (outside of the door where the lock actually locks on to the at) and that is where the piece is.

Save yourself the headache. In order to get to those screws you MUST undo the clips connecting the rods to the actuator. If you don't you will not be able to move the actuator enough in order to unscrew it. There should be 3 I believe. 1 up to the actual door lock that leads outside, a second that goes to the door handle, and a 3rd that is your inside lock.

The goal here is to be able to move the actuator around enough to reach the small screws through the door latch. Once the screws are removed there is a small rubber arm that is placed inside a little boot on the piece the actuator is screwed on to. So don't look for screws if its still hard to get off after the three screws. Just play with it a little.

Its rough. Your wrists will be sore and it will probably take some time. Personally I hope i'll never have to do it again but it can be done. Put the new part in, make sure the arm is back into the boot or else the motor won't lock/unlock the door. Put the 3 screws in first, through the latch as well. Then reassemble the small clips that hold the rods together.

If you need more detailed pictures or even pictures just let me know. I actually have my old door lock actuator sitting 5 feet from me
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Old 01-12-2008, 03:28 AM   #3
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Any pictures you have are great. Pictures of the old actuator showing where the 3 screws are located on it would be nice. How long did it take you to remove the old one and install the new one from start to finish? Also, just to be clear, you don't have to pull the entire door latch out of the door completly, do you?

This link is the replacement that I'm going to buy when I decide to do it, did your replacement look like that?

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...tegory_list=:0

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Old 01-12-2008, 07:54 AM   #4
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Getting ready to go to work so this will be short. It took me about an hour all together.

My replacement was actually from a junker, but the one you linked looks exactly like factory.

I'll try to get you some pictures. Real busy atm.

As for the screws. Look at that picture with the control arm pointing down. The groove in the middle of the it, that will all fit into a piece. Maybe I was wrong about 3 screws but looking at my old one there are 2 screw holes on the other side of the actuator. So on that picture, if you were to flip it around you would see 2 screw holes at about the middle of the actuator.

The entire door latch assembly does not come out. You undo the clips so that way your door handle, outside lock, and inside lock do not have to be removed. Then you play with the hole on the side of the door for the screws. I undid the clips at the far end of the rods. Meaning where it connects to the door handle, lock etc.

The clips have their own little way of unlocking. Usually you push a little plastic piece to the side to unlock it and pull it out. You don't want to break these it would be a pain to fix those. Use some force as the clips may be stuck, but just make sure you don't use too much.

With the clips off the rods move more freely allowing you to move the latch assembly around (thing that the actuator screws on to). It will take A LOT of tugging and pulling, careful not to bend your rods, but eventually I was able to get all the holes lined up through the latch hole and was able to screw it in. I reached my fingers in through the other side and put the arm in the boot. I plugged the connectors in and tested it to make sure the arm was correctly seated.
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Old 01-12-2008, 05:41 PM   #5
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Thanks for that, post the pics when you get a second.

Cheers
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Old 01-13-2008, 11:21 PM   #6
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Digital camera is not with me atm. Classes start tomorrow. So I figured i'd post this. I do think you saw my thread before though.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...270&highlight=

Scroll down. The first picture is the thing that the actuator screws on to. In fact you can see the white plastic arm on the right. The black plastic you see is actually the actuator.

The second picture is one of the clips.

Ignore the relay pics - upon educating myself these actuators fail over time. Messing with the relay was useless for me. I'm not saying to not consider it, i'm just saying chances are its the motor that died.

Basically after removing the door cover and pulling away the plastic you will be able to look in and see the door latch and actuator a well as the rods. Remember you shouldn't have to remove any parts inside the door to replace this. Its just a tight spot thats hard to work with.

P.*. Good call on buying a new one. This was a lot of trouble replacing and I fear that my junker replacement will fail as well. If it does I will replace it with a new one.
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Old 01-14-2008, 03:34 AM   #7
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Ok, thanks. I did see those before but they are helpful still. I saved them for when I start, though that will be when it gets a bit warmer outside.

I don't think I have any relay issues. In my case what occured was occational function of the lock. Mostly it either locked or unlocked but not both, then it finally stopped doing either. Even when it did not lock there appeared to be power to the actuator as the slider would move ever so slighty when the power switch was touched, but it didn't do the job fully. Seemed like the motor was just weak.

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Old 01-14-2008, 09:33 AM   #8
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Exactly what mine did, in fact you'll find once you have the old one out that it can still operate, but poorly. The motor gets gummed up and weak.
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