Park Ave. again..... - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-11-2006, 07:30 PM   #1
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Default Park Ave. again.....

Whats up guys? Not much here, just dumping more money into the PA Well, I've been reading ALOT of different threads and posts on here trying to get all the information I can get about this so when I got to take care of it I'll be ready. Of course the car randomly displays the SES light still which I will be going Friday afternoon to get the codes pulled off of it unless there is another way, say by using a jumper wire to do it. The code that it gives very well good be the cause of the problems I'm having but I'm not sure.

Lets say I've been driving the car all day with no problems, no SES light or anything, you know...like normal. Lets say I got to Wal-Mart, come back out, and the car will not do anything but crank over and over and over for about 5-20 mins and yes it does vary that much. It does not do this all the time. It will happen once every 2-5 days and then maybe it will happen twice a day (waiting for the morning it makes me late to work). When the car finaly does start, the SES light will be on and will stay on. When the SES light is on the gas milage is HORRIBLE. On my last tank I calculated a average of around 10MPG! I'm not sure if this means anything or not but I have noticed that when it is very cold outside the SES likes to stay on. Today it was in the 50'* and the light was not on when I got off from work but it came on during the trip to work this morning.

Here is what I have done for the car:

New fuel pump and sending unit

o2 sensor (i had to get bosch, bad on my part but its a long story and i had to buy a bosch even though i knew not to from what i read on here)

New plugs and wires ( i kept the old plugs if anyone wants to see them I can take pics)

New PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter

I cleaned the MAF and the IAT

I checked the EGR valve to see if it was gunked up and it looked fine

Any ideas and suggestions appreciated. I will know more of course when I get the codes pulled of course and I know its hard for anyone to tell me anything under these circumstances but I thought I would give it a try. Oh and by the way, the gas mileage got worse after the plug and wire change from what I can tell.

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Brandon
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Old 12-11-2006, 08:02 PM   #2
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Make sure none of the spark plug wires are touching the O2 sensor.
Clean both ends of all battery cables.

Crank sensor, ICM & fuel pump can all cause intermittent stalling. Next time it stalls you need to be prepared to check for spark & or fuel pressure.
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Old 12-11-2006, 09:20 PM   #3
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The plug wires are not touching the o2 wires and the battery ends have been cleaned extensively. Can I do the old-fanishoned spark test grounding it to the frame? I need a fuel pressure gauge as well correct?

I'm cursious as to what can cause the horrible gas mileage though.
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Old 12-11-2006, 09:32 PM   #4
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Low fuel pressure can cause poor mileage. The fuel isn't atomized effeciently. Note that I'm NOT saying that'* your problem You need to identify the problem first. Then fix it.

Do the old-school method of spark testing on all 6 cylinders when it won't start. Get a fuel pressure gauge. Tell us what it is key on/ignition of after prime, and how long it takes to bleed down. Also tell us what it is at idle, and at idle with the vacuum line disconnected from the FPR.
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