My car has been running 220+. I go in the other day, buy a 180 T-Stat. I pull the other one, it'* a 160!! I went ahead and put the 180 in it, in case someone didn't change the PCM with the 160, yep runs hotter. It has a new water pump. I'm going to put the 160 back in, but what gives? I am looking into what mods it has. A few I checked it has no MAF screen, and the pulley looks small. Any ideas??

What driving conditions are you talking about? If it'* 45+ mph and still hitting 220, Put the 180 in, and have your cooling system flushed. I suspect either a bad rebuild on the WP, or a restricted radiator. With your older car, that'* a distinct possibility. I plan to put a flush product in mine, then have my coolant flushed at my next oil change.....probably run 500 miles with the flush in it.

Prevention. I don't want the same thing to happen to me.

Don't matter really what driving conditions. 45+ does help to cool it. Idle is a killer (sitting in the drive-thru line at Mickey D'*). I was thinking of a flush, or rodding the radiator. Trying to keep it cheap.

On a hot day in a drive-thru, my car will still hit 220......even with the climate control on Auto. You should be in Auto if you're driving around town, especially with your KS heat. On the freeway, with the 180, you should be running UNDER 200.

How do you check which PCM you have? And what do you mean by a "drilled" t-stat? And how do you measure the SC pulley?

Will, do you have an adequate freon charge?

Are you wondering if you're chipped? It depends on what type it may be. You'll have to pull your PCM (above the passenger footwell/hush panel, the silver box). If it'* aftermarket, you'll see Superchips, Jet, ASE, or something under the little 2-screw cover for the PROM. The Jet is typically a piggyback, and the Superchip is typically a replacment prom. If you don't see any of these, it'* probably stock.

Most aftermarket chips remove the top speed limiter. I'm not suggesting you test the 128-130 cutoff, but if you've been that fast, you would know. Getting the PCM out can be a bitch, but it'll answer alot of questions. You may also check your redline rev limiter and see if that'* raised from stock.

The drilled 180° thermostat prevents the initial drivetrain 'heat satuaration'. You can still spike higher than 180, but it takes longer. It'* a much better option than the 160, unless you're running a PCM that allows for it. My Jet stage 2 chip was tuned for the 180, and was a requirement (as well as intake and exhaust) before using the chip. The number and size of the holes you drill in the thermostat depends on your summer/winter temps, and whether you want to change thermostats twice a year. You get as hot as I do in the summer, but you get colder in the winter. I wouldn't drill more than (2) 1/16" diameter holes unless you want to change back in the winter. You just drill the holes on the flat portion of the thermostat where the rubber seal won't block them, and make sure you de-burr well and rinse it before re-installing it.

The climate differences are the main reason I don't suggest buying a pre-drilled thermostat from one of the GP parts sources.

Yup. AC works great, and the Actron sez things are cool. No pun intended. Where'* your question leading?

Awesome, thanks!!!

Are the cooling fans on the radiator working properly? the PCM turns them on based on a different temperature reading than the one the gauge gets btw (there are 2 sensors).

Anyway, do the fans start when the A/C is turned on?