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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-18-2010, 08:25 PM   #11
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If I do the bypass trick, will that completely ignore my key?
My dad'* concern is that since it'* intermittent, then bypassing it will cause a problem, in the times that my key DOES give the right resistance. I think he'* wrong. What'* the verdict? thanks guys!
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:34 PM   #12
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That write up will totally bypass the chip on the key. If you follow the write up you can go back to using the chip on the key by removing the resister and plugging the wires back together.
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:35 PM   #13
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Excellent. So the chip on the key won't matter at all anymore, for good or bad?
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:36 PM   #14
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Exactly. I set it up so you put resistors in place that mimic the key. Putting a bullet plug on each side you can remove the resistor and return to stock.
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:53 PM   #15
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Sounds excellent! I'll be doing this this weekend.
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Old 11-21-2010, 01:31 PM   #16
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....My orange wire has already been cut. I bought it used.
I went to do this, and my orange wire has been cut. No resistor pack attached to it though.

It'* started fine for at least 4 years now, and it was cut before I bought it obviously.

So what'* my next step?
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Old 11-23-2010, 12:47 PM   #17
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Okay!! I cleaned under the boot of my positive cable and have had no problems since! Wow..such a simple fix. Embarassing!

Anyway, would that have caused a Security light?!
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:08 PM   #18
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Not getting 12 volts to you're whole system will throw everything off. I did an engine build on a car. When we went to start it, because the battery cables were fubar'd, the cooling fans would turn on when the key was put into the start position.
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