An old topic am sure but - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-17-2007, 04:05 PM   #11
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If after connecting the plug to a good ground, you still have no spark, test the coils as listed here in techinfo.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=33

This is a post from a different thread where Technical Ted explains how to test for power going to the ICM (ignition control module). That is the thing that the coils attach to, and will have a connector on the front of it.

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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Thanks for the additional information. I found a schematic of the ignition system. It looks like we could rule out a vats or fuse problem by seeing if there is power going to the ICM.

James - Vats stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. If the ignition switch can't read the proper resistance of the key pellet the car won't start.

Here'* how to check for power going to the ICM.
Unplug the connector at the ICM.
Connect voltmeter or test light between ground and the P terminal of the wiring connector. The schematic shows the P terminal as a pink/blk wire at one end of the connector. The key needs to be in the run position.

If you have power then it sounds like the problem is either the ICM or Crank sensor.

No power will mean Vats, fuse or maybe even the ignition switch is bad.
If you wish to read that thread, it is here.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...esting&start=0

It has some good troubleshooting tips.
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Old 01-17-2007, 04:10 PM   #12
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Ok thanks i will let u know how it goes in a few hours.
Thanks again
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Old 01-17-2007, 05:03 PM   #13
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Fran, I just fixed a car nearby (A 94 Bonneville L27) with the same symptoms as you. Please take a little time to check the fuses on the PASSENGER side of the car. Remove the black plastic hush panel above your front passenger'* seat. 3 screws along the edge of the dash, and a nut or two along the firewall.

Now you'll see another fuse block at the base of the A-pillar (just forward of the door hinges on the inside of the car).
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Old 01-17-2007, 05:21 PM   #14
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Will do ! but i was thinking sence i do hear my fuel pump it would not be a fuse?


------- was typing this and before your post----->Ok i read the whole post Wow very good job! I am just waiting for some help to get home and will check for spark and if there is Spark hmmm. Has anyone ever thought about opening a chat room with voice (Paltalk) is a great program and u can have it prvt or open to the puplic ohyea and it is free.
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Old 01-17-2007, 05:25 PM   #15
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ok going out side to check the fuse'* on the passager side be back in a few??
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Old 01-17-2007, 06:05 PM   #16
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Got the panel off and i see the box where the fuse'* are and there are only 3 in there with two missing the top one and the third one are missing from the top down. Do they pop right out of there? and do i need a voltage metter to test them, i have not pulled them out yet.

Thanks
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:02 PM   #17
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Pull them out, and look at them from the side. You should see an inverted V shaped metal piece between the 2 lugs. If that is broken, the fuse is bad. The best way is a resistance check, but a visual should do. They often like to give you a fight to get them out. Carefully using a pair of needle nose pliers can help, if so.
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:51 PM   #18
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well i checked the fuse'* and they seem to be all good going to go get a volt meter and a helper to check the spark plug for spark
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Old 01-17-2007, 07:59 PM   #19
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The fuel pump & ICM both get power from fuse #6 (20a) on the pass. side. So if you can hear the fuel pump chances are you're also getting power to the ICM. Checking for 12 volts at the wiring harness going to the ICM will eliminate the possibility of faulty wiring or ignition switch.

You should recheck for spark at each of the three front cylinders making sure the base of the plug is grounded.

If you have power going to the ICM & no spark at any of the three front cylinders then you'll have it narrowed down to a bad ICM, crank position sensor or the wiring between them. Of the three possibilities the crank sensor seems to be the more likely candidate. Is the tach showing rpm'* while cranking?
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Old 01-17-2007, 08:16 PM   #20
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(If you have power going to the ICM & no spark at any of the three front cylinders then you'll have it narrowed down to a bad ICM, crank position sensor or the wiring between them. Of the three possibilities the crank sensor seems to be the more likely candidate. Is the tach showing rpm'* while cranking?)

I didnt notice the rpm'* while cranking and i havent check for spark yet, will have to do that tomarrow when i get some help but i couild check the rpms now if that will tell us something prier to checking for spark?
Thanks again
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