An old topic am sure but
RIP
True Car Nut
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 4
From: Grand Rapids, Mi
If after connecting the plug to a good ground, you still have no spark, test the coils as listed here in techinfo.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=33
This is a post from a different thread where Technical Ted explains how to test for power going to the ICM (ignition control module). That is the thing that the coils attach to, and will have a connector on the front of it.
If you wish to read that thread, it is here.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...esting&start=0
It has some good troubleshooting tips.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=33
This is a post from a different thread where Technical Ted explains how to test for power going to the ICM (ignition control module). That is the thing that the coils attach to, and will have a connector on the front of it.
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Thanks for the additional information. I found a schematic of the ignition system. It looks like we could rule out a vats or fuse problem by seeing if there is power going to the ICM.
James - Vats stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. If the ignition switch can't read the proper resistance of the key pellet the car won't start.
Here'* how to check for power going to the ICM.
Unplug the connector at the ICM.
Connect voltmeter or test light between ground and the P terminal of the wiring connector. The schematic shows the P terminal as a pink/blk wire at one end of the connector. The key needs to be in the run position.
If you have power then it sounds like the problem is either the ICM or Crank sensor.
No power will mean Vats, fuse or maybe even the ignition switch is bad.
James - Vats stands for Vehicle Anti-Theft System. If the ignition switch can't read the proper resistance of the key pellet the car won't start.
Here'* how to check for power going to the ICM.
Unplug the connector at the ICM.
Connect voltmeter or test light between ground and the P terminal of the wiring connector. The schematic shows the P terminal as a pink/blk wire at one end of the connector. The key needs to be in the run position.
If you have power then it sounds like the problem is either the ICM or Crank sensor.
No power will mean Vats, fuse or maybe even the ignition switch is bad.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...esting&start=0
It has some good troubleshooting tips.
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 12
Fran, I just fixed a car nearby (A 94 Bonneville L27) with the same symptoms as you. Please take a little time to check the fuses on the PASSENGER side of the car. Remove the black plastic hush panel above your front passenger'* seat. 3 screws along the edge of the dash, and a nut or two along the firewall.
Now you'll see another fuse block at the base of the A-pillar (just forward of the door hinges on the inside of the car).
Now you'll see another fuse block at the base of the A-pillar (just forward of the door hinges on the inside of the car).
Thread Starter
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Will do ! but i was thinking sence i do hear my fuel pump it would not be a fuse?
------- was typing this and before your post----->Ok i read the whole post Wow very good job! I am just waiting for some help to get home and will check for spark and if there is Spark hmmm. Has anyone ever thought about opening a chat room with voice (Paltalk) is a great program and u can have it prvt or open to the puplic ohyea and it is free.
------- was typing this and before your post----->Ok i read the whole post Wow very good job! I am just waiting for some help to get home and will check for spark and if there is Spark hmmm. Has anyone ever thought about opening a chat room with voice (Paltalk) is a great program and u can have it prvt or open to the puplic ohyea and it is free.
Thread Starter
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Got the panel off and i see the box where the fuse'* are and there are only 3 in there with two missing the top one and the third one are missing from the top down. Do they pop right out of there? and do i need a voltage metter to test them, i have not pulled them out yet.
Thanks
Thanks
RIP
True Car Nut
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5,656
Likes: 4
From: Grand Rapids, Mi
Pull them out, and look at them from the side. You should see an inverted V shaped metal piece between the 2 lugs. If that is broken, the fuse is bad. The best way is a resistance check, but a visual should do. They often like to give you a fight to get them out. Carefully using a pair of needle nose pliers can help, if so.
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 1
From: Western New York
The fuel pump & ICM both get power from fuse #6 (20a) on the pass. side. So if you can hear the fuel pump chances are you're also getting power to the ICM. Checking for 12 volts at the wiring harness going to the ICM will eliminate the possibility of faulty wiring or ignition switch.
You should recheck for spark at each of the three front cylinders making sure the base of the plug is grounded.
If you have power going to the ICM & no spark at any of the three front cylinders then you'll have it narrowed down to a bad ICM, crank position sensor or the wiring between them. Of the three possibilities the crank sensor seems to be the more likely candidate. Is the tach showing rpm'* while cranking?
You should recheck for spark at each of the three front cylinders making sure the base of the plug is grounded.
If you have power going to the ICM & no spark at any of the three front cylinders then you'll have it narrowed down to a bad ICM, crank position sensor or the wiring between them. Of the three possibilities the crank sensor seems to be the more likely candidate. Is the tach showing rpm'* while cranking?
Thread Starter
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
(If you have power going to the ICM & no spark at any of the three front cylinders then you'll have it narrowed down to a bad ICM, crank position sensor or the wiring between them. Of the three possibilities the crank sensor seems to be the more likely candidate. Is the tach showing rpm'* while cranking?)
I didnt notice the rpm'* while cranking and i havent check for spark yet, will have to do that tomarrow when i get some help but i couild check the rpms now if that will tell us something prier to checking for spark?
Thanks again
I didnt notice the rpm'* while cranking and i havent check for spark yet, will have to do that tomarrow when i get some help but i couild check the rpms now if that will tell us something prier to checking for spark?
Thanks again