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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-19-2005, 07:39 PM   #1
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Default Oil Recommendations

I like my Bonneville. I like to go really, really fast in my Bonneville. I also like to accelerate quickly, especially when my friend pulls up alongside me at a stoplight. (It happened once, and I won.)

My mileage is around 74,500. While in Autozone (or was it Advance?), I was looking at oil. I did my homework and I realize the benefits of full synthetic oil over natural oil, and I want to take advantage of that (as long as it'* API certified).

Two particular types of oil caught my eye: there was a full synthetic blend for performance applications, and a full synthetic for higher-mileage engines (over 75,000, the bottle said). The performance oil suits my driving style, but the higher-mileage formula suits my engine. Which kind should I get, or should I get both and mix them?

There'* an oil leak somewhere that the mechanics can't find (though I never see oil under my car when I pull out of a parking space). Therefore, I'm guessing the fancy higher-mileage oil would be best, since it advertises itself as gasket sealing, or something along the lines of engine protection. Comments?
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Old 03-19-2005, 09:25 PM   #2
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Man, now that qualifies as a "loaded question"

Just like asking a crowd of a few thousand people for their opinion on which religion is best

GOOD LUCK

don't everyone jump in at once,,,,,
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Old 03-19-2005, 09:25 PM   #3
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Synthetic blend ??

I stick with full synthetic. But you also have to consider how the oil is made and the additive package that they use.

What brand of oil are you lookin @?
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Old 03-19-2005, 10:04 PM   #4
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Well, I specifically am not mentioning brands since I know a war would erupt. I was simply asking what to put in a high mileage performance engine: high mileage oil, performance oil or mix the two?
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:11 PM   #5
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Look closely at wet spots for that leaks, hard to say so please give more info.

As for my personal preference I stick with Mobile 1 10W30 Full Synthetic. I've gone 6k miles with no probs.
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57chevythunder
Man, now that qualifies as a "loaded question"
yep sure does....
im gonna throw some ideas out even though i dont know a ton about oils...
synthetic will free up a little power because it is thinner...
running oil with a lower viscosity will also free up a little power, because it is also thinner, but it breaks up at lower temperature and looses its effect... if ur car overheats this could mean the life or death of ur engine...
i dont know much about the additive packages in the oil ur looking at, but i would stick with the high milage....
if ur engine has excessive sludge build up (check this at the valve covers by taking the oil fill cap off and stick ur finger in (with the engine off) and fealling around) u might want to add a detergent additive, like seafoam, and ive heard that transmission fluid works too....
all motor oil should be api certified... u need to look on the back and see the circle thing with the 2 arcs and the smaller circle in the middle... the top arc should show the api rating, the middle circle should show the viscosity, and the bottom arc should show its energy conserving rating....

btw illegal racing stories are not allowed in the forums....
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:41 AM   #7
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Default Re: Oil Recommendations

Do you really like to go really really fast? If so i would use nothing but used motor oil.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SignOfZeta
I like my Bonneville. I like to go really, really fast in my Bonneville. I also like to accelerate quickly, especially when my friend pulls up alongside me at a stoplight. (It happened once, and I won.)

My mileage is around 74,500. While in Autozone (or was it Advance?), I was looking at oil. I did my homework and I realize the benefits of full synthetic oil over natural oil, and I want to take advantage of that (as long as it'* API certified).

Two particular types of oil caught my eye: there was a full synthetic blend for performance applications, and a full synthetic for higher-mileage engines (over 75,000, the bottle said). The performance oil suits my driving style, but the higher-mileage formula suits my engine. Which kind should I get, or should I get both and mix them?

There'* an oil leak somewhere that the mechanics can't find (though I never see oil under my car when I pull out of a parking space). Therefore, I'm guessing the fancy higher-mileage oil would be best, since it advertises itself as gasket sealing, or something along the lines of engine protection. Comments?
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Old 03-20-2005, 01:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dblack1
yep sure does....
im gonna throw some ideas out even though i dont know a ton about oils...
synthetic will free up a little power because it is thinner...
running oil with a lower viscosity will also free up a little power, because it is also thinner, but it breaks up at lower temperature and looses its effect... if ur car overheats this could mean the life or death of ur engine...
i dont know much about the additive packages in the oil ur looking at, but i would stick with the high milage....
if ur engine has excessive sludge build up (check this at the valve covers by taking the oil fill cap off and stick ur finger in (with the engine off) and fealling around) u might want to add a detergent additive, like seafoam, and ive heard that transmission fluid works too....
all motor oil should be api certified... u need to look on the back and see the circle thing with the 2 arcs and the smaller circle in the middle... the top arc should show the api rating, the middle circle should show the viscosity, and the bottom arc should show its energy conserving rating....
My engine hasn't overheated thus far. I've only driven this car in cold weather, so I wouldn't know how hot the engine gets. I've never seen the engine climb too far past 200 degrees, though. I imagine it wouldn't get too much hotter in hot weather. I'm going to flush the coolant one of these days anyway.

I've been preferring oil with the "starburst" symbol like my manual recommends. It'* a starburst that means the oil is API "approved for gasoline engines."

The oil dipstick has always been pretty clean, so I don't think sludge is a big problem. Jiffy Lube just changed the oil last week (my mom paid for it, so I went along with it) and they didn't mention any problems about dirty oil. I imagine they would have cleaned the system were it a severe problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dblack1
btw illegal racing stories are not allowed in the forums....
Sorry. Wasn't really much of a story, anyway. But don't worry, that'* my only racing story.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sellncars
Do you really like to go really really fast? If so i would use nothing but used motor oil.
I think used oil would defeat the purpose of changing the oil in the first place. If you're not being sarcastic, explain. And if you're being sarcastic... well, I'm tired. Cut me some slack.
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Old 03-20-2005, 01:56 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dblack1
yep sure does....
im gonna throw some ideas out even though i dont know a ton about oils...
synthetic will free up a little power because it is thinner...
running oil with a lower viscosity will also free up a little power, because it is also thinner, but it breaks up at lower temperature and looses its effect... if ur car overheats this could mean the life or death of ur engine...
i dont know much about the additive packages in the oil ur looking at, but i would stick with the high milage....
if ur engine has excessive sludge build up (check this at the valve covers by taking the oil fill cap off and stick ur finger in (with the engine off) and fealling around) u might want to add a detergent additive, like seafoam, and ive heard that transmission fluid works too....
all motor oil should be api certified... u need to look on the back and see the circle thing with the 2 arcs and the smaller circle in the middle... the top arc should show the api rating, the middle circle should show the viscosity, and the bottom arc should show its energy conserving rating....
My engine hasn't overheated thus far. I've only driven this car in cold weather, so I wouldn't know how hot the engine gets. I've never seen the engine climb too far past 200 degrees, though. I imagine it wouldn't get too much hotter in hot weather. I'm going to flush the coolant one of these days anyway.

I've been preferring oil with the "starburst" symbol like my manual recommends. It'* a starburst that means the oil is API "approved for gasoline engines."

The oil dipstick has always been pretty clean, so I don't think sludge is a big problem. Jiffy Lube just changed the oil last week (my mom paid for it, so I went along with it) and they didn't mention any problems about dirty oil. I imagine they would have cleaned the system were it a severe problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dblack1
btw illegal racing stories are not allowed in the forums....
Sorry. Wasn't really much of a story, anyway. But don't worry, that'* my only racing story.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sellncars
Do you really like to go really really fast? If so i would use nothing but used motor oil.
I think used oil would defeat the purpose of changing the oil in the first place. If you're not being sarcastic, explain. And if you're being sarcastic... well, I'm tired. Cut me some slack.

The 1997 SE'* are governed at 108 MPH, so that'* my speed limit. Normally, I drive in the 85-95 MPH range on the highway if traffic is thin and road conditions are good. That'* my definition of "really, really fast."

I learned to drive on a manual, so I hate automatics (except when I have a burger in one hand). So, I use mine as a semi-automatic. I start in first gear and shift up and down as I need to. Thus, the engine RPM occasionally hits the yellow zone between 5 and 6 KRPM (I usually shift up between 3 and 4) when I'm getting on the highway at full speed.

Personally, I blame testosterone.
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Old 03-20-2005, 04:13 AM   #10
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I'd just get moble one synthetic.
and synthetic oil is not thinner unless the weight is different.
But if you go synthetic you can't just go back to regular if synthetic oil and regular oil mix too much (your gonna have oil left in your lifters and other places in your oil system even if you do an oil change) it creates sludge which is pretty bad.
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