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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-31-2007, 02:32 PM   #1
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A few days ago i hop in my awesome 99 SLE and drive for about 2 hours. I go to my brothers house for a while and come back out. I start it, put it in reverse and start to back out. When i throw it into drive....i cant hear anything and theres no gas???? i try to start it and as soon as it starts to run, it dies quickly. I let it cool down for a couple of days while driving a mini-van(ladies love it) and it starts fine. Me and my dad were looking for a access door to the fuel pump and of course we cant find it if there even is one. Ive replaced two fuel pumps on 3800s and the symptoms lead to it only it is really only dyeing when it gets a little warm since i had it running and i shut it off and 2 minutes later turned it on and reved a few times and it dies.

Any ideas???

Is there a trap door to the pump or do i have to pull the tank over a weekend?
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Old 12-31-2007, 02:35 PM   #2
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I would check the fuel pressure before jumping to fuel pump conclusions, because it could also be an ignition problem as well.
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Old 12-31-2007, 03:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99bonne
Is there a trap door to the pump or do i have to pull the tank over a weekend?
There is no access door to the pump The tank will have to come out, I don't think the Bonnes got that access door till 2000
You should be able get the tank out without dropping the entire exhaust system. Unhooking 1 or 2 of the rubber hangers should give you enough room to maneuver the tank in/out.

Ed
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Old 12-31-2007, 03:49 PM   #4
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what kind of tool can i use to check the fuel pressure?

if i cant really do anything else im going to take it to a shop and have it looked at so i know what it is for sure. My dad bought me a fuel pump already at NAPA so hopefully its that since i really dont want to spend anymore money than i have to since i have mods and bills to pay off.
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Old 12-31-2007, 03:54 PM   #5
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You need a fuel pressure gauge. It screws onto the shrader valve on the fuel rail. You want around 40-45 psi at idle.
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Old 12-31-2007, 05:33 PM   #6
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A good fuel pressure tester is about 35 dollars or so. They can be had for even cheaper, but arent as accurate, or so Im told. Most auto parts stores carry them, I believe they use the Actron brand. Personally I bought mine at Harbor Freight for like 15 dollars.

Im just saying that I would want to make sure I had low fuel pressure before purchasing the parts $$ and doing the labor. Your dad can always return the pump before you install it.


Of course the only ignition related thing I can think of right off hand that might cause trouble only when hot is the ICM.

I just know Id be really mad if I bought a new pump, dropped the tank, did all that, then still had the same problem because it was never the fuel pump all along.
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Old 01-01-2008, 05:23 AM   #7
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well i hooked the guage on and it was reading 42 with 46 reving. I swapped out a cold air intake and went to a backlot and went WOT a few times. It was driving fine fo i parked it, went inside, and watched some tv. 2 hours later i felt confident to drive it to work...and it starts then dies as soon as i let go of the key pretty much..
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Old 01-01-2008, 02:11 PM   #8
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Please read this post for the normal things to try.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...010986#1010986
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Old 01-01-2008, 04:30 PM   #9
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that is something different from mine. Mine will fire but will not continue to run. Im pushing more towards overheating icm problem. Anyone have a TUT. with maybe pictures on wheres its happening and how can it be stopped?
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:16 PM   #10
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bump
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