Allright headed down to makato today to meet a few of the members here and they were doing some work for me on my 93 sse...now when I leave today I drove 80 + miles home and heater and defroster only blow cold ??

I have owned the car for a couple months and never had this issue before.

I also notice now (when I got home and went back out to try a couple things ) and when I first left andrews the temp readout was flashing about 6 times .I read somewhere it has to do with a code ?

I did search and tried a couple things except for removing the glove box to check the actuator ??

Now as far as the work that was done :

Trans mount

front / rear swaybar end links /bushing

plugs / wires

programmed my factory keyless fob

One of the serp. belts


Now not that I am a certified mechanic by any strech of the word but they did jack the eng / trans up and down a few times to do the trans mount,maybe something came disconnected ?

No over heating or any liquid spillage,just topped off the overflow tank for the anti-freeze so thats up to par..

AIRMIX door actuator? Do you have ECC codes?

try a search

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...c.php?t=68540&
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...c.php?t=67225&
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...c.php?t=29770&
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...c.php?t=29268&
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...c.php?t=26997&

ECC troubleshooting is in Techinfo.

But I'd first suspect a vacuum leak. Check the vacuum connections under the vacuum accumulator. It'* the black plastic thing between the maxifuse relay center and the wiper motor assembly. It may have been bumped during your plug/wire install.


In this picture, it'* just to the left of the master cylinder, and has a Lucas Oil sticker as well as a reflective INTENSE sticker on it. You can just see the vacuum connections beneath it.

Hans buddy..he said he searched.

A vacuum issue won't keep you from having heat. Vacuum only controls the airflow diverter, normal signs would be air at defroster/floor vs. vents

First thing you need to do is follow the Techinfo article on the ECC (electronic climate control). Pull the glove box and watch the arm while trying to move the ecc to heat. Please remember while doing this..there is a delay before the system should respond.

No coolant was drained correct? And the battery never got unhooked?

Let'* start there...come back and report your findings.

Bill, the battery never got unhooked, but I did remove the 12v feed line to the maxifuse panel (was going to fix it since the relay bracket was hanging out. didn't do anything with coolant. when he arrived, the overflow bottle was bone dry. added coolant to the full line.

we also found his coolant level sensor was unhooked, plugged it back in and as he left said he had a low coolant light, so we unplugged it and it went away . told him to buy a coolant level sensor also.

Okey dokey..

Unhooking that battery cable at the maxifuse relay center is the same to the interior electronics as unhooking the battery.

I can with 99% certainy that upon startup, the air mix actuator cycled and the gear broke because it was weak and from unhooking power, the actuator needed to learn it'* position again.

To fix the problem you will most likely need to change the air mix actuator or redneck fix it. Honestly.. the air mix is pretty easy.

Clear the error codes in the ECC using Techinfo as a first attempt. I have to do that randomly about once a year on my 93. But get the code first and report it here.

Morning all...I will go out and attempt to remove the glove box today... :?

In ran up to the store this morning and now everytime I have started the car since yesterday the temp gauge flashes upon start up,I had the heat off so it only shows the outside temp and that flashes the same way.

Now I put the defrostwer on and ran 10 - 12 blocks down the road and stopped to get gas and the defroster was starting to get warm,shut the car off got gas stasrted back up and it was cold again,heater same..

Saw nothing disconnected anywhere besides that coolant sensor..

Will check back after I pull the glovebox and read how to clear the ECC codes as willwren suggested...man she runs so much better and no sputtering so I am very thanksful to you guys here and the crew in mankato for you kindness....

Don't pull the glovebox yet. Read the codes, report back here. There MAY be no need to pull the box after reading/clearing the code.

Reading the ECC error codes is pretty painless on the 93. Not a bad idea to go ahead and do it. I'm willing to bet it tells you the ECC needs to be calibrated or that your programmer may be bad. And chances are very slim it’* the programmer.

Boosty is probably right – disconnecting the power to the ECC seems to be the death knell for the gear in the airmix actuator, or at least contributes to it. Chances are yours is just beginning to auger in. If you ignore it for a couple weeks it may come back to normal. Mine did. Until I disconnected the battery a couple more times and the gear finally split over 75% through.

Based on the scenario you’ve given, I’d place money on a failing actuator. I dorked around with mine enough to think I recognize the symptoms. Spent lots of time watching it do its thing. If you decide to yank the glovebox (easy enough to do) and watch the action and you see anything but nice, smooth movement of the air mix door arm, you’ve found your huckleberry…a failing actuator.

Follow WillWren’* advice, though, and read those codes first. It’* actually kinda fun.

One more thing - is your heater output somewhat random? Sometimes it'* cool, then when you shut off and restart the car you might get hot or lukewarm air? Sure sign of a dying air mix actuator there!