No heat, and it 7 degrees out! - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-09-2007, 06:05 PM   #1
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 95
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
atauri_92 is on a distinguished road
Default No heat, and it 7 degrees out!

Well, as the topic states I have no heat, and it has been extremely cold for the past few weeks. Due to the cold temps my battery failed, therefore resulting in the purchase of a new battery (it would have been my 3rd recharge, it was time for a new one). Now I have a flashing EEC, and zero heat. I took out the glove box, and checked the motor that controls the air flow. at 90 its all the way left, and at 60, its all the way to the right (both blowing at max airflow). My concern is what is the reason for having no heat?

-if it means anything, my car has full coolant, and runs at about 200 for normal operating temp.
atauri_92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2007, 06:08 PM   #2
Senior Member
Certified Car Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 19,756
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1993 SLE is on a distinguished road
Default

is sounds as the Air mix door gears are cracked....while the arm may still travel to the correct postions the arm is not engaging the gear to actually move the door
1993 SLE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2007, 07:49 PM   #3
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

If you haven't already done so, please check the coolant level in the radiator when the car is cold. It should be all the way to the top. If not, fill it and bleed the cooling system.

Here are some tests to indicate where the problem might be. With the car at operating temperature, fan on high and the heat set to max, check the temperature of the top heater hose that feeds hot coolant from the engine to the heater core. It should be as hot as the top radiator hose. The bottom hose returning coolant from the heater core should be somewhat less hot than the top hose in a normally functioning heater, perhaps 20 or 30 degrees cooler with the heater blowing buckets of hot air into the cabin. If the bottom hose is just as hot as the top hose, then coolant is passing through the core OK, but no heat is being removed from it. This implies that air is not flowing through the heater core and you have some kind of ducting problem. If the top hose is hot and the bottom hose is a lot cooler or cold, that implies that there is a blockage of flow in the heater core. A blocked core is also indicated if the top hose never gets really hot because no coolant can flow. The hose temperatures are easily determined by the new non-contact thermometers that you can just point and shoot. If you feel the hoses with your hand, please be careful not to get hair, clothing, or any parts of your body caught in the moving belts pulleys and alternator fan. It will be safer if you shut the engine off, then quickly feel the hoses to determine the relative temperature of each. This is a tight area where it is very easy to get caught up in a moving belt, pulley, or fan blade.

If your tests reveal a blocked core, you may be able to unplug it by disconnecting both heater hoses at the tensioner assembly and flushing water through the core backwards, that is, through the lower hose. Water should flow freely out the top hose when you do this. If so, you will know your heater core is OK. If you cannot get a decent flow, it is time for a new core. If flushing works for you, reconnect the hoses and add about a quart of pure coolant to the system to compensate for the water in the heater core and hoses. In this cold weather, make sure you run the car and heater long enough for the coolant and water to thoroughly mix.
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2007, 01:47 AM   #4
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 95
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
atauri_92 is on a distinguished road
Default

Where exactly are the heater core hoses located? I was looking around under the hood, and could not seem to locate them. on the rear wall of the engine bay.

-But i did check the radiator while it was cool, and it was completly filled to the top, so thats a start.
atauri_92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2007, 09:45 AM   #5
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by atauri_92
Where exactly are the heater core hoses located? I was looking around under the hood, and could not seem to locate them. on the rear wall of the engine bay.

-But i did check the radiator while it was cool, and it was completly filled to the top, so thats a start.
On the passenger side of the engine compartment towards the windshield. Look down. You will see two hoses. It will be safer if you shut the engine off, then quickly feel the hoses to determine the relative temperature of each. This is a tight area where it is very easy to get caught up in a moving belt, pulley, or fan blade.
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2007, 10:22 AM   #6
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 95
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
atauri_92 is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks, I will have to give that a check some time today, and post my findings,
atauri_92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-10-2007, 11:52 PM   #7
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 95
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
atauri_92 is on a distinguished road
Default

Ok, so the top hose that feeds into the engine block get extremly hot, almost too hot to touch for more than a 20 secs, while the top and bottom heater core hoses are hot (but they feel about the same temp) so does that mean just no heat is being released into the cabin.
atauri_92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2007, 12:03 AM   #8
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

Being that your battery was disconnect ....I'd aim toward an air mix actuator failure. Easiest way to check is pull the glove box and watch operation through the inspection hole.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2007, 10:02 AM   #9
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by atauri_92
Ok, so the top hose that feeds into the engine block get extremly hot, almost too hot to touch for more than a 20 secs, while the top and bottom heater core hoses are hot (but they feel about the same temp) so does that mean just no heat is being released into the cabin.
Both hoses hot suggests that no air is flowing through the heater core. Probably the air mix actuator like Boost said.
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2007, 11:26 AM   #10
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

However..let'* not confuse the airmix with the blower. The flashing ECC would point to a fault in the system, except the blower.

Do you hear the fan for the blower running?
If you watch the actuator, does the arm move back away from the right after a certain amount of time w/o you turning down the heat?
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Heat advisiory today! 105 degrees raptor660 Lounge 27 07-24-2010 10:35 PM
Runs hot - no heat - then temp drops and heat works?? atp 2000-2005 15 12-16-2009 07:46 AM
Heat blowing cold + flashing heat controls after 20 sec chilump 1992-1999 23 02-08-2007 11:48 AM
85 degrees outside and 18 degrees knock retard 1993SSEi Performance, Brainstorming & Tuning 20 08-22-2006 02:52 PM
Anyone here heat with oil heat? I have questions? h1081dan Lounge 3 11-14-2004 05:22 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:18 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.