thanks, I"ll check on the Dormann part. Unfortunately, the one I"m having trouble with is one of the Bob Dillon parts.

Have you talked to Bob about it?

Hi, guys, and Boosty, thanks for the heads up on this post.

The material used to plug the upper passages is quik titanium, not JB Weld. It looks like you sanded them down a bit because I used the flat of a broad putty knife to ensure that the surfaces were flat-that'* why you see a small depression in the middle of the epoxied passages.

Given your situation, I agree with plugging the LIM with plugs. That will keep any coolant from reaching the plugs or gasket surface. The clevite part number is 219-3169, described as "expansion plug, steel, deep cup" and they're 1/2" in diameter. You'll have to drill the UIM out to 1/2" but that can be done with just a hand drill with 1/2" bit. Put grease in the flutes of the drill so chips don't drop down into the cooling passages.

PM me for some more advice.

APN sells a new, sleeved UIM that comes with a reduced diameter stovepipe that will fit right into your lower intake manifold, replacing your original 3/4" pipe with one that is a little bigger than 1/2". The pipe and sleeve together provide a .125" gap to insulate the new upper from the heat radiated from the pipe. The kit comes with a new UIM gasket. This kit from APN is under $100 and appears to be the best off-the-shelf fix for the L36 UIM problem.

Here is the link:

http://www.autopn.com/store/pc/viewP...product=229679

I haven't seen your other posts. If you have not already done so, I would also strongly recommend that you change out your lower intake manifold gaskets for the new GM aluminum frame design.

Read about all of this stuff in Techinfo here:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38

I'm going to go out on a limb here and suggest you don't block off the coolant lines to your throttle body... but that'* a personal decision, I guess.

The cooling system is designed as a system, and blocking off part of a leg of it, not allowing the coolant to circulate where it was intended to is never a good idea. If you buy a beefed up UIM, you don't really need to worry about it... if a failure is going to happen, it'll be far down the road. And you're providing more reason for the UIM to fail by trying to patch it the way you are.

Just my honest opinion...

I finished installing the UIM (again), and it seems to be okay. Its running a little rough, though. I don't know if all the sensors got messed up when coolant was flowing through with the air?? I'm going to change the plugs, but I wanted to run it for a few minutes first in case there was excess junk in the cylinders still.
My main question is, can someone please tell me which way the two large vacuum lines that come out of the throttle body go? There'* one thats a "T", and one that goes straight in, and I'm not sure which one goes on top?

Thanks!

I think this is the answer to your rough running.

How did you handle the UIM problem?

The vacuum line to the charcoal vapor canister goes into the top TB tap on my '95. The tee that feeds the fuel pressure regulator and trans vacuum modulator comes off the bottom tap.

Thats the way I have it hooked up, and its still rough. I'll change the plugs tomorrow and see how it does.
Regarding the UIM, I filled the gasket holes with RTV, and it has held so far. I'll keep an eye on it, though.

I changed the plugs today and drove the car around. It is still idling rough, seems to run okay at speed. I noticed that if I repeatedly press the brakes, or hold them down they seem to loose their power boost. Is it likely I have a vacuum leak somewhere? I can't find any obvious problems, but with the rough idle and brake issue is sure seems like it.
The line coming from the brake booster goes into the UIM, and the smaller line that comes off that appears to go into the firewall. Any suggestions on where to look? I'm still getting a check engine light, as I was prior to UIM replacement, but I didn't think a vacuum leak would trigger that...