It seems like all the big expenses are hitting me at once, as usual...

I'm getting some strange clunks and a few strange vibrations from the front that are leading me to believe it'* time for a shocks/struts change all around on my 97 LeSabre. It has the Gran Touring suspension. My question is, how much am I looking to pay for this (Dealer charge, AutoZone parts with a $75/hr mechanic, and parts alone) and is it something I should even attempt to do myself?

It has 141,000 miles on it with no record of a change so I'm guessing they are probably due for replacement. Can't complain for how long they've lasted.

Once I get this and my pulley squeak fixed, my car should be good as new
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Honestly at autozone you'll be lookin at about $350-400 in parts. I dont know about the other places because I always do them myself. I did my first strut job when I was 16, on my 92 lesabre. Im only 21 now and I've done it on three other cars. I would say go for it.

Thanks for the help. I'll look more into buying the parts as soon as I have the money to do it.

Would this be something I could attempt myself with only a couple of ramps and jackstands? I assume I'll need to get the car aligned after I do it, right?

I'm probably going to need a lot of help about proper directions for removal, etc once I get closer. Unless my Haynes manual is really detailed about it, which I doubt.
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How safe would something like this be?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HD-9-...spagenameZWDVW

Or would it be better to spend extra and get something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/McPhe...spagenameZWDVW

I'd rather try to do this myself as I'm sure I'd get charged extensively no matter where I took this.
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Last time I did my front struts, I rented the strut spring compressor from autozone. All you have to pay is a 40 dollar deposit or something. Just make sure the one they loan you isnt abused, when I rented one from autozone it was brand new, and very sturdy. The haynes manual is plenty useful. The hardest part will be getting the strut to knuckle bolts to break loose. You really need some PB blaster or equal penetrating catalyst. I would also replace all eight strut to knuckle bolts(2 on each wheel). the best way to break those loose is to use a breaker bar with an extension and support the middle of the extension with a jackstand. (you get some serious breaking torque that way) also dont use deep well sockets they will break.

Ah yeah, I forgot about Autozone rentals. That'* a much better idea.

I have to be honest and say I have no idea which bolts you are talking about. Are those the bolts that attach at either end of the strut?

Might be best to wait until the time is nearer and take a picture of my strut. Fortunately, this is my weekend project car and not my daily driver so if it'* laid up for a while while I figure things out it'* no big deal.
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You might also try the Monroe Quick-Strut for the fronts.

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/m...quickstrut.cfm

This replaces the springs and bearing plates at the same time.

I like that idea a lot better.

I don't suppose there is anything like that for the rear? Or is the rear built differently? I know it looks a lot different but I haven't really paid much attention to changing suspension components before...

The back end also has the auto load leveling suspension. Will this complicate things?
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