New Motor...No oil getting to the top end - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-08-2006, 11:40 PM   #11
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SE'* don't have an external oil cooler. Only SSEi'* have the 3-core radiator that cools the engine oil.
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Old 05-09-2006, 12:03 AM   #12
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Ok, I got the new motor installed.

Everything is pretty great so far. Oil is churning around under the valve covers as it should. I had to replace my starter (Cracked case). There are no leaks, or big problems to worry about. The idle is very smooth, and responsive.

The only small problem I am noticing is after the car heats up...more like the oil heats up. Oil pressure drops pretty low. The oil at this point (Usually 20 minutes of cunitinuous running) is very thin, and extremely clear (light in color). Pressure at this point will drop down to under 20psi. This is only at idle though. If i raise the rpms to just 1,000 or 1100-the oil pressure goes back up to normal.

After I let the car cool down, then start her back up-the oil pressure is perfect. Of course until things heat up.

I've concluded that the oil is thinning too much. I may change the oil to a thicker, heavier formula tomorrow to see how things pan out.

Does anyone have a take on this?
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Old 05-09-2006, 12:55 AM   #13
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The motor will live at 15-20 psi at idle, but that'* worrisome. Mine idles at about 40 psi fully warmed up with 135K on it.

I'd try some 20W-50 and see if it goes away, even though the owner'* manual calls for 10W-30.

Needless to say, this bears close watching, especially since these folks flubbed the first rebuild.
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
Needless to say, this bears close watching, especially since these folks flubbed the first rebuild.
No kidding,,what oil did you have in there that it'* that low at idle,, you could try putting
a new GM senser in mabie you got a defective one,, thats not right you should have
mor than that at an idle, both my 3800'* have like 30-40 psi at idle and 55 -60 at opp.
rpm'*. with 10w30 Mobil 1 syn.(of course)

Even in the winter with 5w30 i have awsome oil pressure.......
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:54 AM   #15
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Oil pressure senders typically fail by reading too high, but it'* worth putting a mechanical gauge on that thing.
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:58 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
it'* worth putting a mechanical gauge on that thing.
I would that would tell the story
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Old 05-09-2006, 01:18 PM   #17
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Ok...the problem seems solved.

I drained the oil and refilled with some 20W-50. The pressure hasn't fell below 20psi since.

On a side note...I also installed an adjustable Vacuum Transmission Modulator. Its not a big difference, but the extra firmness is certainly a plus.

I would like to sincerely thank everyone here that has helped me through this long process. I definately couldn't have done it with out all of you.

Very Respectfully,

-IKZ
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Old 05-09-2006, 01:35 PM   #18
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I'd like to see that motor break in and switch that oil out. You're falslely raising your pressure.

If you can't achieve that pressure with 5w30 or 10w30, you have a problem.
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Old 05-09-2006, 01:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
I'd like to see that motor break in and switch that oil out. You're falslely raising your pressure.

If you can't achieve that pressure with 5w30 or 10w30, you have a problem.
I also agree^^^ something still is'nt right there,,20w50 is too thick,you should not need
that thick of oil..you have a problem,,better find it....
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Old 05-10-2006, 07:41 AM   #20
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[quote="willwren"]SE'* don't have an external oil cooler. Only SSEi'* have the 3-core radiator that cools the engine oil.

My bad, should have noted trim info.
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