New member with 97 SE seeking repair opinions - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-05-2007, 11:37 PM   #11
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Thanks guys for your feedback and offers of help. I will let you know what I decide to do. It may be a month or more. Thanks again.
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Old 02-06-2007, 12:27 AM   #12
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Hey guys, this is a former neighbor of mine whom I talked with about a month ago. Keep the help coming! Anything unclear after reading through these posts?

I forgot to ask you about the coolant level
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:50 PM   #13
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Update: Charged battery overnight and car started up this morning (would not start previously with a jump). Ran car a few minutes. "Check engine light" was on and engine still running rough. Started again this evening for a few minutes - same observations. Apparently battery is weak and should be replaced if I decide to keep the car. Engine oil is normal looking, and not "like chocolate milk" as was suggested might be the case for UIM/LIM failure. Radiator overflow reservoir is essentially dry. Could not get radiator cap off to check that - what am I doing wrong? Exhaust smelled normal to me and not "sweet," but don't know if I'm the best judge of that. Have not driven car in over a month, but may try it this weekend by going to mechanic or Napa store to have codes checked with computer. Other thoughts?
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:06 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Potsy395
Radiator overflow reservoir is essentially dry. Could not get radiator cap off to check that - what am I doing wrong?
Dry reservoir is a bad sign. Put the palm of your hand on the cap and push down really hard while turning counter-clockwise. Keep trying, it will come off. If coolant is down in the radiator and there are no signs of external leaks like puddles of coolant underneath or wet spots on the engine or in the engine compartment, UIM/LIM failure is a strong probability.
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:12 AM   #15
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If you can get the codes checked that would really help point us in the right direction. I'm still a little weary about the upper intake. My brother'* car ran roughly before he got his replaced. Is it possible to pull one of the front spark plugs to see if it'* been burning coolant?
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Old 02-12-2007, 11:31 PM   #16
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Another Update: I checked the coolant level in the radiator on Saturday and the fluid level was not visible. It took only an ounce or two to bring it back up to the top though. I did not check the plugs myself for coolant fouling, but I did take the car to a Pontiac dealer on Saturday to see if someone could perform diagnostics for me, but no mechanic was on duty, only young kids who do oil changes. When I tried to leave, the car would not start, so I ended up leaving it there for them to check out today.

I got a call this morning telling me I have an internal coolant leak, plus external leak (water pump apparently). They said this is causing the plugs to foul and the car to start/run rough. For parts and labor to install a new UIM and LIM, thermostat, water pump, and plugs, they quoted $1,760 plus tax!

When I asked if this could also be the cause of the transmission surging/stalling, they said they would not be able to tell that until they fixed this first UIM/LIM problem. Which means I could invest big dollars in a repair and then be faced with a possible second very large bill ( I was quoted a maximum of $1,700 for a tranny rebuild from a transmission shop).

So, I'm facing the thought of spending ~$1,800-$3,500 for the trained mechanics to do all this work.

(As mentioned before, I do not have the tools or talent to attempt any of this myself. I could make the time to do it with a knowledgable partner. Thanks for the offer to help from the fella from Whitewater, WI, - are you serious?! FYI - Grafton is a northern suburb of Milwaukee).

I'm in no extreme hurry - I have till middle May to fix or replace this car for my college son. Right now, my wife and I are leaning toward retirement of this Bonneville @ 155K miles, not 165K as I mentioned in my first message. :(

Any more thoughts out there in Bonneville Club land?
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Old 02-13-2007, 01:13 AM   #17
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i'm about an hour from milwaukee, but i;ve taken out the UIM and LIM in mine, and it'* not that hard if you have a few tools and a few hours
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Old 02-13-2007, 03:04 AM   #18
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High Quality Repair Option
APN upper............ $115
Al LIM gaskets........ $60
Elbow kit................... $5
Coolant.....................$17
Brake parts cleaner...$4
NGK..TR55..plugs.....$12
Water pump..............$30
T'stat + gaskets....... $6
Injector o-rings...........$5
Sealant,..loctite...........$8
Throttle body cleaner.$4
Oil change................$15
Total........................$281

Lowest-Cost Good Repair
Repair upper............$15
r.d. stovepipe...........$10
UIM/TB gaskets........$35
plastic LIM gaskets.. $35
Elbow kit................... $5
Coolant.....................$17
Brake parts cleaner...$4
NGK..TR55..plugs.....$12
Water pump...............$30
T'stat + gaskets.........$6
Injector o-rings...........$5
Sealant,..loctite...........$8
Throttle body cleaner.$4
Oil Change................$15
Total........................$201

Craftsman tools for above $200
Harbor freight tools for above $35 + Craftsman beam wrench $30

It would be possible to do the work yourself and obtain a higher quality repair than the shop for as little as $266 including purchasing tools. Both UIM repairs listed above include a reduced diameter stovepipe and a sleeved EGR passage in the upper intake manifold. The shop would most likely install a Dorman without a heat shield, and almost certainly plastic LIM gaskets. You would need to mail-order parts, and, in the lowest cost example, take an extra day to repair the UIM. All the information you need can be found right here on the Bonneville Club.
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Old 02-13-2007, 08:19 AM   #19
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Goto WallyWorld, get yourself one of those cheap general mechanic tool sets. Sets that come with deep well MM and standard. You won't be needing anything over 17MM to do the UIM/LIM gasket job. Most you would spend on is a decent torque wrench. Do not go cheap on that one.

After repairing the UIM/LIM I'm sure you could get many more years out of her. Just stay here, get the info needed and you will be set.
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Old 02-14-2007, 09:56 PM   #20
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Rich,
If you can wait a while there is a chance I could help out too. I have all the tools. I'm going to tackle a similar project on my '99 SSEi when I pick it up shortly (replacing the Lower Intake Manifold gaskets). I've got a supercharger vs. a plastic upper intake but it'* the same principle, and I've seen my own UIM/LIM job done before. Maybe I could swing up for Saturday/Sunday sometime. I could help you secure parts too if that'd help.

Bob
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