never cranks on first attempt
#1
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never cranks on first attempt
after my car has sit all night when I go to crank her up she never turns over on the first try. she just coughs a little and then when I do turn the switch again she cranks right up. I've cleaned the throttle body but to no avail. not really a problem (i don't think) but I want to see what I can do to get my baby to crank as soon as I put the key in the ignition.
180,000 miles
180,000 miles
#2
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Try turning the ignition on and waiting for a couple seconds. Then crank. It might start.
You're showing signs of classic fuel pump failure, which shouldn't be a surprise considering the age.
Check your fuel pressure. at the rail.
You're showing signs of classic fuel pump failure, which shouldn't be a surprise considering the age.
Check your fuel pressure. at the rail.
#3
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thanx willwren
couple of questions.
Is a fuel pump a do it yourself job?
I also have the problem where when I make a
right turn my check gauges light comes on if I'm at 1/4 of a tank.
Are these two related?
couple of questions.
Is a fuel pump a do it yourself job?
I also have the problem where when I make a
right turn my check gauges light comes on if I'm at 1/4 of a tank.
Are these two related?
#4
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I found your post confusing. I've always considered 'cranking' to be the starter rotating the motor. Are you saying the motor is 'turning over' but not starting?
#5
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92 fuel tanks have inferior baffling that can cause that problem. If you were a little lower on fuel, it would try to stall in a turn. An old plugged up strainer assembly on your pump can make this work.
Changing the fuel pump can be a DIY job, but it'* VERY difficult with only one person. Ideally you should have 3 people when the tank comes out and goes back in. It should make it alot easier.
A couple of us have done this solo, but it'* not fun. Please check your fuel pressure first, and if it'* bad, consider getting a fuel tank from a wrecker from a 93 or newer, then move your sending unit over to it and install a new pump before installing the donor tank. 93 and newer didn't have the baffling problems.
My FP swap:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=42104
Changing the fuel pump can be a DIY job, but it'* VERY difficult with only one person. Ideally you should have 3 people when the tank comes out and goes back in. It should make it alot easier.
A couple of us have done this solo, but it'* not fun. Please check your fuel pressure first, and if it'* bad, consider getting a fuel tank from a wrecker from a 93 or newer, then move your sending unit over to it and install a new pump before installing the donor tank. 93 and newer didn't have the baffling problems.
My FP swap:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=42104
#6
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Originally Posted by strongsun1
thanx willwren
couple of questions.
Is a fuel pump a do it yourself job?
I also have the problem where when I make a
right turn my check gauges light comes on if I'm at 1/4 of a tank.
Are these two related?
couple of questions.
Is a fuel pump a do it yourself job?
I also have the problem where when I make a
right turn my check gauges light comes on if I'm at 1/4 of a tank.
Are these two related?
The check gagues is prolly related to the baffels in the tank. the car is thinking that it is low on fuel and illuminating the Check gagues light in the dash
#7
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
I found your post confusing. I've always considered 'cranking' to be the starter rotating the motor. Are you saying the motor is 'turning over' but not starting?
#8
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Honestly. A fuel pump is a pretty easy thing unless the tank is full. Then it'* simply a lot of weight.
I jack the vehicle and support at drip edge (where you'd jack to change a tire).
Drop exhaust..2 bolts.
Disconnect electrical connector to tank
Disconnect quick connects for fuel and evap lines (might be after tank has started down for some older models)
Undo the hoses at the filler end (more hose to keep any excess fuel in)
Support tank in middle with floor jack that has flat board on it to distribute weight.
Undo strap bolts. (if bolt'* don't come undone, cut straps, new are only $30 for both at most)
Lower tank and sneak past e-brake cable.
Remove sender and replace pump. Reassemble.
I jack the vehicle and support at drip edge (where you'd jack to change a tire).
Drop exhaust..2 bolts.
Disconnect electrical connector to tank
Disconnect quick connects for fuel and evap lines (might be after tank has started down for some older models)
Undo the hoses at the filler end (more hose to keep any excess fuel in)
Support tank in middle with floor jack that has flat board on it to distribute weight.
Undo strap bolts. (if bolt'* don't come undone, cut straps, new are only $30 for both at most)
Lower tank and sneak past e-brake cable.
Remove sender and replace pump. Reassemble.
#10
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thanx for the info guys.
to clarify when i first turn the key everything sounds like its turning over but does not start. on 2nd attempt it always cranks right up and will not have a problem at all untill the next morning. I did a fuel pressure test at the fp regulator but my tester only test the vacum line because i don't have the schrader valve connection. @ the vacum line it reads fp is fine.
to clarify when i first turn the key everything sounds like its turning over but does not start. on 2nd attempt it always cranks right up and will not have a problem at all untill the next morning. I did a fuel pressure test at the fp regulator but my tester only test the vacum line because i don't have the schrader valve connection. @ the vacum line it reads fp is fine.