pressures still seem a little low. 33 psi corresponds to about a 38 degree evaporator. I would try to bring that up a little bit. maybe a small can(probably wont take the whole can. add it slow as a gas with can upright. let your pressures stabalize as you add stopping for about 5 minutes in between. is your fan on high windows down or....what. 45.5 psi is 50 degrees. I believe that Echo SSEI has the fsm for your year, it should have the design pressures.
p.*.
find that leak.

The soap bubble testing is more effective if you put the soap solution in a pump spray bottle, like an old Windex bottle or the like. I use the same method to find very small leaks in tires. You need to be patient and realize that some of the bubbles will naturally coalesce. It may help to use the mirror with a flashlight method for some of the joints where it is hard to see.

OK, I think I have it. 3 hours later, with a drop in the ambient temp of 10 degrees (to 62) low side is 20 and high side is 75. There is no chilled air from the vents. The compressor clutch is still engaging.

I used the soap bubble trick from underneath (yes, Bill, I used a Windex bottle.) First of all, there is a film of pretty clear oil on the bottom of the oil pan that wasn't there when I changed my engine oil and filter 2 days ago, because I wiped the bottom of the pan off thoroughly.

There are two large tubes that go into the back of the compressor. The forward tube has a T-fitting for what looks like a pressure switch (has an electrical fitting going to it) and there are both oil drops on the bottom of this fitting as well as slight bubbling from the soap water. This fitting also goes into a device about the size of a beer can.

Sounds like I found the leak. Now what do I do? Anybody got a system schematic? It looks fairly easy to get to with the radiator and condensor out.

I don't see a nut of any type where the large tubes go into the compressor. I'm assuming these are 0-ringed?

Here is what I found. Not exactly sure how to read this completely.

Temp----------Humidity---------Low Side (in psig)-------High Side (in psig)--------A/C Discharge Temp
60*F-70*F----Low (<40)-------23-31 psig-------------------140-190 psig--------------39*-49*
60*F-70*F----High--------------25-33 psig-------------------155-200 psig--------------42*-50*

80*F-----------Low (<40)-------27-35 psig-------------------165-220 psig--------------45*-54*
80*F-----------High--------------29-37 psig-------------------185-245 psig--------------47*-57*

90*F-----------Low (<40)-------34-42 psig-------------------185-260 psig--------------50*-60*
90*F-----------High--------------37-45 psig-------------------190-280 psig--------------53*-63*

100*F----------Low (<40)-------38-48 psig-------------------200-300 psig--------------55*-65*
100*F----------High--------------39-49 psig-------------------210-310 psig--------------55*-65*

110*F----------Low (<40)-------42-55 psig-------------------230-340 psig--------------60*-70*
110*F----------High--------------42-55 psig-------------------230-350 psig--------------60*-70*

A/C pressure switch set points to disengauge the A/C clutch are 730 psi and 44 psi.

Awesome! thanks Echo!!! Bob i believe that the compressor seals are copper or aluminum rings...not sure though as im not familiar with the V5 comps.

Bob...you got a PM.

Also, that is a pressure switch on the one line. If you are just removing the compressor, then you don't need to remove the switch or the electrical.

To remove the compressor

Recovering the refrigerant...then
1. Remove drive belt
2. Raise and support vehicle
3. Remove splash shield
4. Unbolt transmission oil cooler line bracket
5. Remove the retaining bolt between the two lines at the back of the compressor
6. Remove front mounting nuts and rear mounting bolt
7. Remove compressor

I assume there are O-rings for the tubes, but I haven't found the detail yet.

Remind us again, Don....HR6 is through '95 and V5 is on '96-99, correct?

Yea Jr., Echo filled me in on that earlier today