Need link to 1995 OBD 2 procedure - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 07-11-2010, 11:44 PM   #1
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Default Need link to 1995 OBD 2 procedure

I check thru the tech tips and could not come up with anything. I am trying to figure out if I want to gather up all the gear necessary to pull the codes myself or dish out $75 to see what the CL is all about now.

Got a CL during a 300 miles trip today. Seems to be a bad misfire. Engine actually died once but restarted and I limped it back into town. No mis fire under hard throttle but running on cruise control and in OD it was terrible. Driving on level ground, everything is good, start pulling hills and it misses.

Recent plugs (AC Delco), wires, coils. ICM 'bout a year old. Virtually all sensors have been replaced cept TPS, MAF, O2. Runs great once it cools off and around town. Very smooth idle, revs easy with no load. Good fuel, fuel filter and fuel pressure (least last time I checked). AC Delco fuel pump about 2yrs old. Just turned 193k.
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:52 AM   #2
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If your near an Autozone, they can do it for free for ya. In the meantime, you can look for a vacuum leak with a can of carb and choke cleaner. Just spray all of your lines and around the intake manifold mating areas.

But yea, that code would really help us out.
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Old 07-13-2010, 02:49 PM   #3
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1995 has a "ODB 1.5" computer. Most code readers will not have the correct software to read it. I just got done fixing a problem with my Bonnie and my local Autozone was not able to read codes from my car. I had to take it in to work(Was off for summer shutdown) and have the codes read with a tech2 that has the proper software loaded on it. I have been searching eBay for awhile for a reasonable priced code reader that will do ODB 1.5 with no luck. If you find a good source, please post it.
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Old 07-13-2010, 05:17 PM   #4
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http://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/obdlink-*.html

This is the one I have. It should read it. I have a 95 PCM out in my garage, I only need to provide power to it and test my scanner on it. I may have this done tonight...
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Old 07-13-2010, 06:26 PM   #5
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This is what I use. I have seen it for a few dollars less but not often. Actron doesn't make them anymore but even at this price mine has paid for itself many times over.

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9145-...9056128&sr=8-1
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:43 PM   #6
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Guess it'* a no-go for the one I have.

Found it...
http://obd2allinone.com/sc/details.asp?item=aldlobd2u
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:16 PM   #7
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Checked with several Auto Zones and other stores, no deal, 96 and up, go figure. Taking it in tomorrow to see whats up with it. Will get back with yall when I have a answer.
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:42 AM   #8
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Default Misfire under load-FIXED

Here was the problem. Bad misfire and backfire under load. Would rev up fine in neutral, run fine on level ground. Hit a hill or try to pass and it would fall on its face, CL would come on. Scan showed a issue with crank sensor. (They never did give the actual code #). Said my Harmonic balancer was shot. Needed balancer, crank and cam sensor, "we can do it today for $870". Thanks but no thanks guys, I think I can handle this one. With new balancer ($93) and crank sensor ($32) in hand, I attacked the job. remove Rt front wheel and spash shield. Real good access. My sissy impact would not budge the bolt so I figured I would try the "wedge a 15/16 wrench on the bolt and lay it aginst the frame trick". First two hits of the starter, nothing, third hit and the bolt broke loose and I didn't launch the wrench across the driveway. Had a rental puller from AZ but no fine thread bolts could be found at the late hour I was working on it. I figured the balancer was ruined anyway so I put a jaw puller on it, came off real easy. The balancer was OEM (1995 vintage, 193000 miles on it). You could see where it had started to twist and there was a 3-4in. tear in the rubber. Crank sensor showed no damage but it was the orginial one also so I replaced it with a BW unit. The cam sensor was less than a year old so I saw no need to replace it. Got everything buttoned up. The torque spec on the bolt proved to be near impossible to attain with my torque wrench and the location of the bolt so I settled for a cheater bar on a 1/2 breaker bar, two feet againt the frame and pull till sweat broke out on my forehead. Fired 'er up and took it on "beat it to death" test drive. All it good now, for alot less than $870.

It was thru the help of this forum that this job was made real easy. The wrench against the frame trick worked like a charm, which I most likely would not have thought of if I had not read it here. May not be the "approved" or safest method of breaking a bolt loose, but it worked and the risk was miminal. Thanks again 'yall.
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